Monday, 25 October 2010

Weak As Kitten, Inspired Like Fox

I'm definitely weak and very thin at the moment. This is interesting when attempting these routes which I was working when I was stronger.

Up at Kepwick today to try and perfect the groove. The crag was moist and cold after a lot of rain and the sandstone kind of soft as a result. I think someone has been on the Groove as well, as a crucial pocket has had a lot of wear, making it a bit poor.

Trying a physical route like the Kepwick Groove was quite interesting with reduced fitness, as I had to really perfect the sequence to get up it. I managed the crux move fine- it felt hard (cause it is), but I didn't fall off it once. I have the technique for the crux wired- the key being to clamp the top of the toes of the trailing right foot against the wall as you bump up.

The start moves were a different story though, affected slightly by damp I managed the more techniquey move still OK, but the powerful pull on the now damaged pocket just felt way too out there to solo.

After this you have to hang off a rubbish gaston above your head whilst you smear your feet to place the bomber Skyhook (your only gear). This causes a problem as you get massively scared sketching around on rubbish smears before entering the very precise and technical crux, which you need to be relaxed and happy for.
Maybe this was the session where it seems way too hard, before it all falls into place as with the Moose, or maybe it was the session where you realise it's a nails-hard death route that only a total madman would attempt?

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