Saturday, 13 November 2010

New Project In The Western Peak


After a tip off of an unclimbed direct finish to an E3, I headed off out with Dan Lane for a look. It was soaking wet and looked like a minor route, so set out to have a look for other new routes.

I soon found that an impossible-looking slab offered a line of small edges with a distinctive 5 foot gap in between the holds. It took a while to figure out, but with high feet, finger strength and what is now almost becoming a trademark hyper-extended finger push I managed the crux.
Pretty Nails, and a great line. I was well stoked. The available gear made the line appear even more classic, with a good cluster at around half height (on a 20 metre wall!) and the crux at the top. 50 foot whippers await...
Unfortunately on my return home I discovered that the line had already been climbed at a reported and unrepeated E5 6c. The description relies heavily on very out of the way side runners, which must of been pre-placed to have almost offered a top rope for the crux.

A quick search appears to cast doubt as to whether the route has been climbed at all with
"Looked at the direct finish to ***** that ******* "climbed";) May be "delightfull" on a top rope;)", but after a chat with the FA it's pretty obvious he climbed it.
And others have obviously seen the appeal of climbing the line without the side runners:
"E5 6c, just a thought, but the real route is still there to be had anyway. Loose the side runners and get the proper line. Now that would be a route worth writing home about!!! That would be historically significant "done without side runners", Joe Bloggs xx/xx/200x E8/9 6c.;)"
Regardless as to whether it's been done with gear on route or not, the challenge of freeing that desperate slab's lethal potential is really enticing. To be on that wall, with gear 15 foot below and nothing but fear driving you forward is what I'm psyched for.

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Written dryness, but still entertaining.

Anonymous said...

Hope to see same more information in futere.

Anonymous said...

I really liked your article.