Monday, 22 November 2010

Processing The Impossible

I had an ab down the direct finish to Peace Process at Tintwistle Knarr Yesterday. It's been regarded as impossible by a couple of people and I reckon they might be right.

After climbing to the highpoint on the E5 (3 metres above a cluster of ok gear), you break out onto the wall. The first hard move is rocking over on the jug of the E5 and you then have no holds bigger than a matchstick for a further 4 metres. 4 metres doesn't sound a long way, but it'll be about 10 utterly desperate moves; Most of which involve laybacking off razorblade edges with nothing for your feet and popping (or wildly jumping) for the next razorblade.

Luckily there are quite a few holds on the wall, even if they are all pretty small. After the 4 metres of ultra-thinness, your first noticable hold appears in the form of a sloping crimp, which you surmount up to another small hold. Then a lunge onto a big shelf and continuing till the top at about 6b.

The end of the difficult climbing is about 8 metres above your gear and the gear is about 10 metres off the deck. The idea of linking it on a top rope is pretty out there at the moment and massively beyond me, but the wall is truly beautiful and I really hope somone with suitable ability and stiff shoes gets on it.

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