Thursday, 20 January 2011

Turning into a Tool

So, 2011 has been quite a good year so far. My lack of posting has been due to a lack of outdoor movement over the past few weeks, but I've been taking advantage of our in-house woodie to gain some valuable strength.

For the first time ever I've managed to do campus moves and general semi-burly moves which 'weak franks 2k10' could only have dreamed of. The results were partially seen today, with my first outdoor venture of 2011. Down to Burbage and Stanage for a potter about.

I was only bouldering, but managed to flash a lot of problems, a few V6s and a V7; then managing a V8 third go. Most chuffed and was quite near on a few F7b+s, so will have to keep pushing the bouldering.

I'm very happy to be pushing the bouldering as it helps me fit in, in this faceless town of boulderers- Manchester. It's also enormous FUN.

Friday, 7 January 2011

2010, or more importantly 2011

I'm not sure what to write when looking back at 2010. I achieved non of my aims, but I feel like i've changed as a person, which is something I never really wanted to do. What I'd give to go back to the boldness of youth and thinking I was something special.

The year started quite well, with the FA of The Hypocrisy Of Moose, A route which I have no doubt will become a little micro classic, this twinned with the greatest discovery of the year, winter climbing. I am yet to fail on a winter route, although I did sketch the last bit of the Jabberwock, so I am still hopeful there, but not as hopeful as I once was- declaring all winter climbing easy as it's on jugs. I now realise that VIII and IX may well be quite hard, but compared to their equivalents in trad climbing still comparatively easy.

Headpointing has been like a disease this year. The year started with it being my friend, but now I look back and see how I abandoned onsight climbing for the quick fix and high grades of working routes. Ultimately I have failed to get a hard route done, which I honestly did not think would be the case looking back at this point.

The Alps was another failure although a nice holiday. So failure is common theme, but I'm genuinely happy to have failed. I now know my weaknesses and some of my strengths, which brings me onto how I am going to improve in order to achieve what I want to. My main aim is to get strong. I can't even lock off on a jug at the moment and can do about four pull-ups, so I suppose H7 is in that respect quite an achievement. If I can turn V6 strength into V9 strength then maybe I can loose the shackles of inability? We'll see, but some fun objectives for me to look back on I'll list below for my own amusement:

*V9
*F8a+
*onsight lots of things and loose the 'losing the onsight ego thing'
*FOU