I had the moves pretty wired, not perfect, but I was confident it'd all come together on the lead. The first couple of shunts went well and I was scared, but stoked and calmish.
On lead it all went smoothly, the E4 start bit was fine and clipping the pegs not an issue. I cruised higher up the 6b groove, now 8 metres above the pegs and into the crux.A big move out onto the wall is followed by the worrying move- getting a foot super high and onto a little edge. It popped off. I held it. The ground was 20 metres below me and concentrated my movements.
I don't know what went wrong, the rope went over a little edge, which I had to move and burst my bubble. Negative thoughts then ensued on the crux. I knew my foot was wet from that last hold and this spiraled into doubt.
I was off.
Bounce off a ledge 7 metres below me, away from the crag and nearly hitting the other wall, as I swing Jack jumps off the ledge to take in slack. The top peg snaps, clean in half. The second peg rips. The E9 gear is now gone and i'm trusting the gear on the pre-amble E4, this is about 8 metres off the deck on a 23 metre route and a lone poor size 2 nut.
Jack managed to take in enough slack for me to come onto it and it holds! The rope starts to come tight just as I hit the floor.
I don't understand how Jack took that much slack in and when I look up at the pegs I can't believe I'm still here.
An ambulance is called and I'm taken off to Tameside General, but I'm fine. Theres Nothing broken, just a seriously bruised arse, knackered ankle, rope burn round my neck and a dented helmet. Definitely time to re-consider doing these kinds of routes.
So get on it! It's now an open project and my estimated H8/9 6c/7a has become a little harder since it is obvious there is no real gear. I'm done with it, open for you all.