Thursday, 24 March 2011

O'Gradey's on lead H9 6c/7a **

So I got on my project today, O'gradey's Incurable Itch without side-runners.

I had the moves pretty wired, not perfect, but I was confident it'd all come together on the lead. The first couple of shunts went well and I was scared, but stoked and calmish.

On lead it all went smoothly, the E4 start bit was fine and clipping the pegs not an issue. I cruised higher up the 6b groove, now 8 metres above the pegs and into the crux.
A big move out onto the wall is followed by the worrying move- getting a foot super high and onto a little edge. It popped off. I held it. The ground was 20 metres below me and concentrated my movements.

I don't know what went wrong, the rope went over a little edge, which I had to move and burst my bubble. Negative thoughts then ensued on the crux. I knew my foot was wet from that last hold and this spiraled into doubt.
I was off.

Bounce off a ledge 7 metres below me, away from the crag and nearly hitting the other wall, as I swing Jack jumps off the ledge to take in slack. The top peg snaps, clean in half. The second peg rips. The E9 gear is now gone and i'm trusting the gear on the pre-amble E4, this is about 8 metres off the deck on a 23 metre route and a lone poor size 2 nut.

Jack managed to take in enough slack for me to come onto it and it holds! The rope starts to come tight just as I hit the floor.

I don't understand how Jack took that much slack in and when I look up at the pegs I can't believe I'm still here.

An ambulance is called and I'm taken off to Tameside General, but I'm fine. Theres Nothing broken, just a seriously bruised arse, knackered ankle, rope burn round my neck and a dented helmet. Definitely time to re-consider doing these kinds of routes.

So get on it! It's now an open project and my estimated H8/9 6c/7a has become a little harder since it is obvious there is no real gear. I'm done with it, open for you all.

10 comments:

Anonymous said...

Unlucky Franco, s'pose you better get back on it and get crushing.

Anonymous said...

Eliminating side runners from a route dosent make a route a 'project' as such to me, the climbing has already been done previously. Now if you were eliminating a point of aid that would be a different matter.

Well done having the balls to get on it, and well done for surviving the fall. I had a similar lengh ground fall a couple of years ago and only survived thanks to wet vegetation and scree alowing me to slide to a halt.

Anonymous said...

If you are doing a bit of navel gazing you might want to read this http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1237

Stay lucky

Best, Simon (aka Shark)

Anonymous said...

Another case of ambition outstripping ability. An E6 without side runners does not an E9 make.

Anonymous said...

Where is the interest ?
Good luck for your next so crazy climbs so you don't work for our so nice activity.

Franco Cookson said...

"Another case of ambition outstripping ability. An E6 without side runners does not an E9 make."

I thank you for the comment. I think the first sentence is correct. I did not have the ability to get on it without more preparation.

However "An E6 without side runners does not an E9 make". That is a very silly comment- it most certainly does. This route is actually more like 6c for the tall, but 6c/7a above a very dangerous fall is definitely E8/9.

I'd welcome a response to this, but I won't hold my breath.

Anonymous said...

"However "An E6 without side runners does not an E9 make". That is a very silly comment- it most certainly does."

In your extensive experience? Not only do you not have any experience at this grade you've no experience at the grade below, and the grade below that, in fact you've no experience on any established test-piece, only the routes you and your mates have put up and invented grades for, and yet you're comparing a side-runner less ascent of this to the Indian Face, get a grip.
You're a big fish in a little cyber sea, the punters on UKC think anything over E1 is hard, however the real world has different views. I'm sure you're loving all the attention, but you'll only continue to receive it if you do something hard, and frankly Franco you lack the vision to do what's really needed, so you'll take the easy path of getting on something easy but bold and you'll come a serious cropper, and believe it or not I don't wish that on you or your family.

Franco Cookson said...

Go repeat them. Have you climbed the indian face?

chrishedgehog said...

Some of this extremely fierce criticism would hold a bit more weight if it wasn't hiding behind anonymity. I admire your patience and politeness in your responses to these type of comments. There's no way most people would be so courteous! chris h

Anonymous said...

Still having a hard time figuring out why you don't like lasses !

I love the film of you on Vimeo, where you're bouncing around and the profanities flow freely !

Would still like to have you on the end of my rope , some day !

Take care - Zoe xxx