Tuesday, 12 April 2011

Clemmitt's- Exploration

Rockout Font 6a+
Today was the second day spent at clemmitt's this week. After a morning run down to Oak Crag we were blown back to the car a little grumpy due to the horribly cold wind. The new problem 'Mighty Oak' looked good, but it was too cold for the really sharp holds. It was time for somewhere sheltered and warm, It was time for Clemmitt's!

It was a great crag choice as the forest was tranquil and warm, whilst we could watch the heather being blown around on the top of the hill. We worked our way through the problems: me doing the problems I didn't try last time and Rebecca enjoying herself on the easy slabs.

We then went up to Jake's problem which is on a large block of really nice Moors sandstone. With the one mat we had, we simultaneously worked a direct on Jakes problem, which was a dyno to a sloper, and worked a traverse of the boulder from right to left working its way along the obvious juggy flake to a difficult slopey finish.

I had tried the direct before and it took about 10 goes before I latched it, giving a good Font 7a. Rebecca then did her problem which was her first ever new route and a good one at about V2. Just as we were about to leave the boulder, I noticed a large juggy hold by the start of her problem, on the right hand side and a decent hold on the lip of the top overhang. It was going to be a massive dyno, but I got to work on it. It was actually quite straightforward (about Font 6c), but probably the best problem I've done in the Moors- definitely going to be a future classic and on some great holds.
Agony Font 7a+?
Whilst Rebecca pottered about on the lower boulders I went about trying Lee's sloper problem, doing it with a sidepull at about V5, but i think the real challenge is to do it without the far left sidepull, which would be hard.

A walk round to Lee's latest boulder, which he has uncovered from the undergrowth had an obvious rising traverse line on it on small, poor holds. I spent a while working it and managed it eventually, topping out up a flake, which doesn't have to be the end- a possible extension would be about a grade harder. Today's effort, probably Font 7a+.
Sam's Problem Font 6b
The final challenge was a second go at a route which I'm thinking of calling 'agony'. It's a difficult move to a poor crimp (painful) and then a wild throw to the top. I got the top and held it, but had dabbed on the way up, so can't claim it. Not the best problem, but quite hard. Again Font 7a+,maybe Font 7b, but perhaps it just feels hard because it's so painful.

Some pictures of the good stuff are needed!

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Nice looking problems - where is it exactly?