Sunday, 10 April 2011

Scuggy Exploration- Something in Them Woods...

Rebex enjoying the sun
Since the demise of my bike I've had to be rather cunning in my attempts to get to crags. Time to get some driving lessons I think....
Today I managed to persuade Rebecca to drive me to have a look at a project in return for a nice day out at Scugdale. It was a beautiful day, the rock was warm and it was a really lovely day doing brilliant routes, which I haven't done for a long time. Scugdale is such a great little venue and Rebecca enjoyed her self.
The Nose (V2)

Once she was a little tired I marched her back down to the car and then through some woods to search out one of the more esoteric buttresses in the moors. The objective was what I remembered as a short, bold, one move wonder in some woods.
Stewker - E1 5c (V2)

I was amazed to arrive at the crag to find Steve Ramsden and his mate already on it. I never thought I'd have to queue at Snotterdale! After he showed me the beta I realised that it wasn't going to be the quick afternoon ground-up/headpoint I thought it would be.
Hidden in the Woods: A Good line- I promise!

A cool route and my anti-style. I nearly linked it first go, but then didn't get the last move at all on my subsequent attempts. We only had half an hour before Sunday lunch anyway, so tootled back after re-checking out the right-hand quarries. I don't think I'm that interested to be honest. It's a great line in a nice esoteric venue, but very slappy, bold, slopey and body tensiony, which is everything I'm bad at. It's also pretty hard! Font 7a/F7b+ seemed to be the consensus, but doesn't mean much when you start to look down at the tree's you're going to land on. Good luck to Steve, will be a nice addition to the moors if he gets psyched for the solo.
An unclimbed hanging crack- looks E2 6aish


ram man said...

yeah, unfortunately those good holds out left on the crux I'd carefully ignored ruin the route really. Not hard to get to from the arete pinch and once you've got them you can just bridge your left foot on the other wall. Gutted! Would be fine and still make sense as a slightly tight line if it was at boulder height but it's not so it doesn't...
Might still be able to contrive something worthwhile on the other side of the arete but the moves to me felt reachy, sharp and a bit crap by comparison.

Franco Cookson said...

What a shame- almost worth doing it as an eliminate just for the moves... and the right arete looked like it could go, but then you're a bit near the left hand finish of desperandum.