Tuesday, 28 June 2011

Another Arete Found At Danby...

I seem to be spending all my time at Danby Crag these days and I'm quite happy about it too. The wild Jungle below only adds to the exploratory feel and I'm still finding new nooks and crannys with unclimbed lines and dense undergrowth all the time.

Today I returned with twig, after a day at camp hill with the hull crew and Sam. I lowered twig off a crappy stake and he had a look at the latest arete. It was a brief look and we figured out the moves and cleaned bits and bobs until a grade estimate could be made. The start was the crux at 6b/c, but with another 6b move at half height by a cluster of OK gear. Top quality laybacking up the fluted arete then follows. As soon as we get back with some half ropes this should offer an ace E6.

I gave twig a choice of around ten other things to have a shunt on, but we ended up on my leaning mono wall. He soon decided he didn't really like the look of it, so I had another bash. The route is getting cleaner and cleaner with every attempt, which makes matters a lot simpler, comparing it to the Hypocrisy of Moose is interesting, as that was filthy at first, but since my attempt and Steve and oaksie's top roping of it, it's cleaned up nicely.

The crux is semi-dialed, but I need to gain some serious power endurance to be able to get it every time after the heinous pulls before. It's quite interesting having an endurance project as I can't keep power in reserve at all. My fingers are now trashed, so I'm going to have to have some time off- there are some remarkably similar bolt holes in my kitchen beams, so I might try doing some pull ups on them.


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