Friday, 24 June 2011

Danby Projects

Returning to Danby today to suss out the vast numbers of new routes. There is so much there that I adopted a new tactic- speed abseiling. I managed to cross off 6 pottential new routes as either rubbish, too hard, not quite worth the effort or stuff to come back to in a bit. (Get in touch if you want a project between E5 and H10...)

I then went for a look down last week's project. I just laughed to myself- today was the day when I realised I was never going to do it. I reckoned it would be F8a+/b; in actuality I'm not even sure it's possible. There are four moves on it which are definitely harder than Font 7c and two of them are at a height at which you would seriously injure yourself. The other two are ridiculously hard. So I think that's one to save for a bit.

So with no realistic project left I went for an ab down one of the four other lines I had my eye on. It looked about E6 6b/c on ab and I wondered whether it was worth waiting to try ground up, but thought I may as well have a look now, considering I am without either partners or transport.

It was actually quite hard. It looked like it had been an old aid route interestingly, with four closely spaced bolt holes going through the bulge. I was pretty happy these were there, as there weren't many other holds and these offered perfect ring finger monos which you could lock off inbetween. On the lip of the bulge the monos ran out, perhaps the FA had top stepped and reached further holds, or perhaps it was an incomplete project. It certainly looked quite hard for someone 'back int' day' to climb with big boots.

Anyway, after they ran out I was pretty stuffed. The next hold was a pocket over a metre away and without great feet the move is hard. I didn't manage it as I didn't want to full-on dyno on a route I knew would have to be a solo, but perhaps a full-dyno will be the only way to do it.

It looks like a cool project anyway- tip top climbing (albeit on artificial holds), culminating in a wild dyno at a serious height. I shall be back. The fingers soon gave in though and I returned home, but only after finding a great ground up project and after being chased by stampeding cattle.

Danby is ace!

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