Sunday, 24 July 2011

Danby Bouldering Video

Bouldering at Danby Crag from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

A few odd episodes...

Saturday, 23 July 2011

Danby Projects and New Clemmitt's Font 7b

Just a few pictures of some of the danby Projects and a new problem I managed today.Managed this from sit today.
An arete Lee graded Font 6b from sit. I found this quite hard.
Twin aretes buttress- The Moose is the centre arete, with a project at about E6 up the overhang and the left arete and another crappy project up the wall to the right...
The Mono Wall- not a great line, but good, difficult climbing with a crux on the smooth top wall.
Where it's at- The west of the Ravine. The triangular arete is the best line as a boulder problem (Font 7bish) into a necky sequence at English 6cish. The near arete is a surprisingly difficult highball (Linked at Font 7a+ish) and in between is a futuristic blunt arete, which I can't quite do. Seems quite hard, with appalling feet.

Thursday, 21 July 2011

A Mega Moors Day Out- A New Buttress

The New Buttress- 'Battersby Bastion'

After a heavy night in Yarm we headed out to Crag x, only a couple of hundred metres east of Turkey Nab.
Perfect Position, only a few Metres from Turkey

On arrival I realised I was still a bit drunk, so Dooge got to lead the plum groove up the centre of Buttress. As there were only two of us Dooge opted for me to take pictures rather than belay, which meant he should have probably just soloed...
One Of Our Better New Routes

I seconded and then added a direct start, which was kind of interesting, but the difficulty was out of kilter from the rest of the route. With an E2 5b and E2 6a, there is only the arete to the left to do now. This looks like it will be a spicy E4/5.
Deep Bog
It was quite windy and I was cold, so we opted for a walk south, towards the equator and Rudd Scar and Botton head. It had a real feel of exploration, with large distances across rugged terain. It's pretty wild up there! We found some interesting rock, a mine addit and a pinnacle, which unfortunately looked like it offered only poor climbing. Rudd looks kind of promising though.
The Pinnacle
First of Many

It was now getting late, so we descended straight down, through bog and thick trees to gain a track and back to Bank Foot. From here we went for a fourth crag of the day- Potter's Quarry, Capt. Cooks area. We had a good hour on the old classics and found some of them pretty spicy!
5b apparently...
Dooge on Borboletta

A top notch day really- Cheers Dooge!

Saturday, 16 July 2011

A New Problem at Clemmitt's

Me, Dooge and Lee got out to Clemmitt's tonight for a brief evening on some new aretes. We did a couple of new things that were actually very enjoyable. Grades in the low Font 7s. The highlight was probably an arete that took us a fair few goes to get from crouch. We manged to do the sit, but were too tired to link it into the rest of the route. Top problem though.
Lee also showed me some old maps to the area, which are really interesting. There are some amazing 19th century names for some of the local crags.

Monday, 4 July 2011

Danby Pictures and Another New Route

Dooge on a New Route
The Jungle Drum E5 6b**

Another venture to Danby Crag yesterday with Dooge and Sam. Dave led a line he'd previously had a look at and cleaned and I recovered from a hangover.
A Project E7 6cish
Eventually the headache went and I abed down another one of the projects and held a couple of the moves on a shunt. The bottom of the arete is going to have to be done above pads and looks like a nice font 7b arete problem. Once the flat hold at half height drys, the next bold move will be ok, followed by a really hard and wild top. Really nice line.
The Polish Diplomat E5 6b- Dave ripping his tip on a razor hold....

The polish diplomat is a proud wall to the right of The Jungle Drum. It ascends a line of weakness that looks slabby, but actually becomes quite strenuous once time is spent placing gear. I had tried to onsight the route, but out of practice with trad onsighting and encountering some dusty holds I retreated from only a few inches from the top- the crux. Dave abed the line and gave it a good clean, figuring out how to do the top move and finding a placement for another valuable 00 cam. The lead was quite tense considering the previous laid-back atmosphere and it looked gripping at the top, when the reach seemed to last forever. He gave it E5, thinking the top move was 6a/b, although I reckon that could be a little stiff. Perhaps I'll get the opportunity to make the first flash ascent and form an opinion myself. It all depends on how bomber the cams below turn out to be.

The Perfect Chair
Valiant MHVS 5a ***

Sam managed to link The Jungle Drum on a shunt and then went about leading the stiff VS 5a Valliant. Top class route this, well deserving its stars. He seems psyched for Danby, which is great as me and Dave are getting a bit old for this game now...

A strange compilation of short videos and pictures:

Saturday, 2 July 2011

The Jungle Drum E5 6b ** FA

After another little clean of the Danby arete today, it was ready for a lead and it was tip top. The arete is only 8 or 9 metres tall, but it packs a lot into this relatively short height and offers a brilliant finish on smears and flutings. Me and Twig had previously thought it would be E6 6c, but Dave found a better sequence for the start and the crux at 2/3 height is actually quite well protected by a double zero cam, which we had previously missed. Grade was pretty irrelevant though, as the climbing was top notch, only a shame that it doesn't continue for a few more metres.

Dave then had a look at the bold wall to the right on a shunt, which looked hard and safe, but was actually tricky and bold. I had a go at onsighting it, getting only a hold from the top, but that's the crux and I promptly downclimbed- glad I didn't fall onto the cams. Dave nearly went for the lead, with the knowledge of how to do the final move, but decided against it due to the sweaty conditions. It's not the worlds greatest route, but it has a hard balancy pull of around english 6b above poorish gear. Maybe this will get done tomorrow...

The day was rounded off with a couple more abseils down some uninspected lines on the far right of Danby. The 'E3 5c arete' seemed more like E6 6c, which was quite funny; and the 'E4 6b blunt arete to the left' turned out to be closer to E7/8 7a, with a ridiculously desperate final move above a crag-height fall. It's all very exciting and Doogie seemed quite impressed by the quality of Danby new routing.

Pictures to come