Dooge on a New Route
The Jungle Drum E5 6b**
Another venture to Danby Crag yesterday with Dooge and Sam. Dave led a line he'd previously had a look at and cleaned and I recovered from a hangover.
A Project E7 6cish
Eventually the headache went and I abed down another one of the projects and held a couple of the moves on a shunt. The bottom of the arete is going to have to be done above pads and looks like a nice font 7b arete problem. Once the flat hold at half height drys, the next bold move will be ok, followed by a really hard and wild top. Really nice line.
The Polish Diplomat E5 6b- Dave ripping his tip on a razor hold....
The polish diplomat is a proud wall to the right of The Jungle Drum. It ascends a line of weakness that looks slabby, but actually becomes quite strenuous once time is spent placing gear. I had tried to onsight the route, but out of practice with trad onsighting and encountering some dusty holds I retreated from only a few inches from the top- the crux. Dave abed the line and gave it a good clean, figuring out how to do the top move and finding a placement for another valuable 00 cam. The lead was quite tense considering the previous laid-back atmosphere and it looked gripping at the top, when the reach seemed to last forever. He gave it E5, thinking the top move was 6a/b, although I reckon that could be a little stiff. Perhaps I'll get the opportunity to make the first flash ascent and form an opinion myself. It all depends on how bomber the cams below turn out to be.
The Perfect Chair
Valiant MHVS 5a ***
Sam managed to link The Jungle Drum on a shunt and then went about leading the stiff VS 5a Valliant. Top class route this, well deserving its stars. He seems psyched for Danby, which is great as me and Dave are getting a bit old for this game now...
A strange compilation of short videos and pictures: