Saturday, 2 July 2011

The Jungle Drum E5 6b ** FA

After another little clean of the Danby arete today, it was ready for a lead and it was tip top. The arete is only 8 or 9 metres tall, but it packs a lot into this relatively short height and offers a brilliant finish on smears and flutings. Me and Twig had previously thought it would be E6 6c, but Dave found a better sequence for the start and the crux at 2/3 height is actually quite well protected by a double zero cam, which we had previously missed. Grade was pretty irrelevant though, as the climbing was top notch, only a shame that it doesn't continue for a few more metres.

Dave then had a look at the bold wall to the right on a shunt, which looked hard and safe, but was actually tricky and bold. I had a go at onsighting it, getting only a hold from the top, but that's the crux and I promptly downclimbed- glad I didn't fall onto the cams. Dave nearly went for the lead, with the knowledge of how to do the final move, but decided against it due to the sweaty conditions. It's not the worlds greatest route, but it has a hard balancy pull of around english 6b above poorish gear. Maybe this will get done tomorrow...

The day was rounded off with a couple more abseils down some uninspected lines on the far right of Danby. The 'E3 5c arete' seemed more like E6 6c, which was quite funny; and the 'E4 6b blunt arete to the left' turned out to be closer to E7/8 7a, with a ridiculously desperate final move above a crag-height fall. It's all very exciting and Doogie seemed quite impressed by the quality of Danby new routing.

Pictures to come

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