Saturday, 20 August 2011

Danby Failings

small, wet, horrible crimp
All has been going so well recently I forgot what a true beating by the crag feels like.

Yesterday we ventured to Danby crag; keen for a go at the first ascent of one of the best unclimbed lines in the moors. I'd already high-balled out the start and worked the last desperate move on a shunt, so was optimistic I could link the two bits together and work out the 'big jump' in between ground up.
Boulder start done
I managed the first bit of boulder problem, which is an agonising reachy pull to a thin edge (currently a bit damp), but then fell off on an easy move higher up. I then couldn't do the start move again and ripped a tip. Balls!
Angered with wrecked tip
I'm not sure whether the ultra-thin, painful, slightly damp nature of this route makes it all the more classic (as you can't work the moves very much and can only try moves ground up a few times), or whether it is just highly irritating and a bit spoilt by the bastard little holds.

Ah well, the line is still there and a long bath to regenerate my tips will see me right, for when the route is properly dried out again. A good bit of failure never hurt anyone!

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