Saturday, 13 August 2011

The Finger- Steve McClure's V11 7a

My padless attempt the other day
With another disappointingly drizzly day, me and dooge got out to the Wainstones. Our psyche was low whilst walking up in warm, clammy rain and arriving at the crag to find the whole place rather uninspiring.

I was stoked though, fueled by ego and excited at the prospect of ticking my first V11. I'm a pretty poor boulderer and the illusive 'font 8a' was always the part of the '8s challenge' I thought I'd find hardest.

I'd had a feel of Steve's 'the Finger' the other day without mats and it seemed like it would go, so I tricked Dave into coming back with two pads. I got spat off it at first as I hadn't warmed up, but after a couple of pull ups and some creative thinking from Dave in regard to launching for an undercut rather than the top I got it. I was pretty happy.

It was always the problem that was never really feasible and although it is most likely soft for the grade, it always looked impossible and getting up the impossible is what really excites me. A happy day for me to walk in the footsteps of Steve McClure, with the unclimbed sit start looking appetising...

Video to come

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