Thursday, 18 August 2011

Honey Arete Onsight E5 6b***

Dave is now a Danby detractor, so we had to be inventive with a limping car and only a few local crags. The crag of choice was no surprise: Round Crag- an easy 6 miles away and packed with moderate testpieces (hard for the moors).

I've been really stoked to try and onsight Honey Arete for a while now, as Steve Ramsden worked it and said it was very good and it's a really nice line. I remembered it looking highball-able and my style of climbing- balancy arete climbing.

Alas we arrived to find a very tall arete that looked like it needed quite a compressiony sequence. I climbed up and down a bit, with rests in between attempts, eventually getting the balls to got for the crux. It was quite tricky, with really high smeary feet and big slopey sidepulls for hands. I got onto the good foothold and chilled out.
Dave had cleaned the route and at this point, (about as high as I could have possibly jumped off) I was pretty happy he had. A swing rightwards around the arete and the top was insight, right after I smeared on some of the scariest footholds of the moors.

I was pretty gripped, a bomber crimp with my right hand the only comfort and the usual exuberant topout yelping was replaced by silence as I calmed myself down and celebrated ascending one of the best routes in the moors in a really fitting style. There's been some chat about this being E6 I think, which I can understand, but perhaps it's just hard E5?

I was most chuffed and the day was topped off by Dave's cool ascent (after a little inspection) and a top rope of 'Scut', the E6 which has become harder since the loss of holds.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

What an insight survey, I love your article.

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