Sunday, 14 August 2011

Metcalfe Destroys Danby!


I invited my chum Jack Metcalfe up from Manchester to come and try our new routes and problems and get a tastes of Moors' new routing. We took him to Danby, keen for our recent new routes to be repeated, armed with four pads.

He cooly warmed up by onsighting The Jungle Drum, the classy arete that has now settled at E4 6a**, confirming both it's grade and quality- suggesting if it was a bit longer it could be 3 stars. Me and Dooge were happy, so we pointed him at the very new 'Chocolate Moose', which I had given E5 6c**. Thankfully he fell off, saving the few strands of my Ego that remained, but after a couple more falls on to the ocean of mats he got up to the glorious jug with impressive ease. Dooge then repeated the line and they both suggested that a grade of E4 6b*** would be more appropriate.
I doubted their suggestion, until I then also cruised the line with considerably more ease and less panic than the other day and conceded that my testpiece was actually a path.
We finished the day, attacked by midges up at Stormy Hall, where perhaps the most impressive feat of the day occurred- Jack's flash of Body Torque Font 7a+/7b+. A final sit start to the angry woodlouse finished a great day and perhaps we might have a new Moors convert.

It was interesting to have his perspective, which has helped us sort out our new routes and get an outside perspective on how routes in the area settle in terms of difficulty. It's very odd how something that originally feels E6 can turn out to be E4 and how the deploying of pads can actually make a line into a superb highball, rather than a mediocre route.

Progress was also made on the arete to the left of Vulcan, with only another session of cleaning and working the top needed before a lead attempt me thinks.

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