Wednesday, 17 August 2011

Snotterbad Day- A New E4 And Some New Bouldering

The Wizard's Prow Font 6c*
We needed a change of scene- away from Danby and in some new surroundings. Dave also fancied getting on some easier stuff that we could try and onsight, or quickly do after a clean on ab, so off we went to Snotterdale.

The first thing we found was a brilliant little boulder prow that we warmed up on at Font 6c. Some of the nicest rock I've ever climbed on, with brilliant big undercuts and pinches of excellent frictiony rock. This got us in good spirits, so I went about trying to onsight an unclimbed hanging crack on the main crag, which I've been wanting to try for a while.
The Unnamed Hanging Crack E4 6a**
The line was good, with an inaccessible crack above a thin horizontal break offering adequate gear. From here you contort around a bit and get into the thing from the left. Dave offered to clean the line, but I quite liked the idea of the challenge of a dirty route- scraping a kinfeblade peg down the crack to try and find a hold mid-crux is always exciting!

It was nice to get a little gripped again and whilst topping out with a perfect big camalot, I was surprised how similar the climbing was to 'Gym Junkies' (E3 6a ***) at Ingleby Incline. Although the move getting into the crack was harder and the gear a little more suspect, it is of a really similar height and climbing style. I'm determined not to be soft in my grading anymore, so I think 6a is fair and E4 accurate. It's Certainly not E5, but it seems harder than the Jungle Drum or 'Sixth Sense', the E3 6a* to the left.

Dave had cleaned Sixth Sense and he went about effectively onsighting it. It looked scary and good, so I had a go at flashing it. I'm glad I had the confidence from Dave just doing it, as the top moves are really quite balancy and it's a solo! A typical Moors E3 6a- bold and with a crux at the top... It did feel E3, maybe it could be E4 to onsight rather than flash, but it must be soft 5c rather than 6a, or it would have felt E5 above that fall. Another hidden gem though- well good.
The Lady of The Lake Font 6b **
We then warmed down on a new boulder arete that was a right monster route and about font 6b. Alas the Midges came...

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