Sam Marks in a 'Wicked Willieesque' position
A truly wild day up at Blakey today with Sam and Dooge. The wind was up and Round Crag was not that pleasant-a-place to be. The line up the centre of lion buttress still looked ominously unticked and despite being determined to climb it, I had some worries about my totally wrecked tips and the inevitable bloody battle that would be required for a successful ascent.
Dave had a go at it, as he was slightly less beaten by it and had a bit more tip thickness to play with. The same high point was reached again and again, each time met with a little more desperation until he finally gave in.
Rocking up to the Micro Crimp
After a brief bouldering interlude, with Sam climbing two fine new problems on the lower boulders, it was my turn to get on the 'Blakey ripper'. Time after time I launched for the final sloping hold and on one occasion I very nearly held it, alas it was not meant to be.
I handed over to Dooge and Sam again, who struggled at first, but then Dave got a different look about him- quite confident and balanced. He stood a moment on the crux and repositioned himself. And then the vision of Dooge came forth and suddenly it looked very promising. He managed to get the remnants of the micro-spike, that had smashed last night, as a terrible gaston and he stayed on. There was only a couple of moves left now and he wasn't coming off. Straight up to the big sloping crimp and then a little move out right before the victorious mantel. He'd done it!
Sam Approaching the Crux Micro Crimp
I was pretty happy for dooge, but also felt the pressure now and was slightly upset that my huge leap was seemingly unnecessary. I tentatively stepped up for the lead and quickly got to the gear and clipped it. Up again with my now bleeding tips, I crushed the tiny hold into submission. An off-balance foot movement and I could move into the same sandy gaston. I was on the Edge of the Edge in a truly wild setting. The hold felt bad and my fingers felt worse, but I'd lost too much ego to this route already. I big move out right, all technique lost and I held the sloping hold. YES! A bit of a worrying moment up top, with the exposed mantle and a fair bit of rope out, but I was safe and the beast had finally been tamed.
Video to come...
o and grade etc. Dave's sequence turned out to not be that hard, like not 7a hard, so we thought E5 6c was bang on. Certainly a big step up from the classic well protected 6bs, like peak E4s and atomic, but not as hard as stuff like Windows of Perception (E6 7a) (almost a shame Dave found this sequence..). A great testpiece none-the-less with some excellent moves and our search for a totally desperate moors testpiece continues. I really enjoyed this, but watch ya shins on the fall!