Sunday, 28 August 2011

A Wild Day Out- The Ground Up Project Goes With A Fight- Mane Vision E5 6c**

Sam Marks in a 'Wicked Willieesque' position
A truly wild day up at Blakey today with Sam and Dooge. The wind was up and Round Crag was not that pleasant-a-place to be. The line up the centre of lion buttress still looked ominously unticked and despite being determined to climb it, I had some worries about my totally wrecked tips and the inevitable bloody battle that would be required for a successful ascent.

Dave had a go at it, as he was slightly less beaten by it and had a bit more tip thickness to play with. The same high point was reached again and again, each time met with a little more desperation until he finally gave in.

Rocking up to the Micro Crimp
After a brief bouldering interlude, with Sam climbing two fine new problems on the lower boulders, it was my turn to get on the 'Blakey ripper'. Time after time I launched for the final sloping hold and on one occasion I very nearly held it, alas it was not meant to be.

I handed over to Dooge and Sam again, who struggled at first, but then Dave got a different look about him- quite confident and balanced. He stood a moment on the crux and repositioned himself. And then the vision of Dooge came forth and suddenly it looked very promising. He managed to get the remnants of the micro-spike, that had smashed last night, as a terrible gaston and he stayed on. There was only a couple of moves left now and he wasn't coming off. Straight up to the big sloping crimp and then a little move out right before the victorious mantel. He'd done it!

Sam Approaching the Crux Micro Crimp
I was pretty happy for dooge, but also felt the pressure now and was slightly upset that my huge leap was seemingly unnecessary. I tentatively stepped up for the lead and quickly got to the gear and clipped it. Up again with my now bleeding tips, I crushed the tiny hold into submission. An off-balance foot movement and I could move into the same sandy gaston. I was on the Edge of the Edge in a truly wild setting. The hold felt bad and my fingers felt worse, but I'd lost too much ego to this route already. I big move out right, all technique lost and I held the sloping hold. YES! A bit of a worrying moment up top, with the exposed mantle and a fair bit of rope out, but I was safe and the beast had finally been tamed.

Video to come...
Battle Scars
o and grade etc. Dave's sequence turned out to not be that hard, like not 7a hard, so we thought E5 6c was bang on. Certainly a big step up from the classic well protected 6bs, like peak E4s and atomic, but not as hard as stuff like Windows of Perception (E6 7a) (almost a shame Dave found this sequence..). A great testpiece none-the-less with some excellent moves and our search for a totally desperate moors testpiece continues. I really enjoyed this, but watch ya shins on the fall!


Anonymous said...

Well done lads, looks awesome. Buzzing for the vid. Dave.

Franco Cookson said...

Thanks. Me too, haven't seen it yet! :)