Thursday, 15 September 2011

Stoupe Brow Exploration

Lunar Landscape
A few photos of some projects at Stoupe Brow today. There's some extraordinary climbing to be done here and I was very pleased to find out that a blunt arete that I had assumed was impossible actually yielded to a reasonable series of moves, albeit sustained and difficult.
The Right Walls
Dooge trying some of the moves on the Blunt rib- will be about E7 7a.
Nice moves with high feet

The rib starts off with an easy pre-amble to get stood on a ledge. From here you lean over and place a small tricam and a blue camalot in the large pocket on the left. These are both pretty good. You get the big pocket with your left hand and step up near it with your left foot. A big rockover allows you to lunge for a nice crimp with your right hand and you end up in quite an unbalanced situation. You then pop up with your left hand to an ok crimp and step through with the outside edge of your right foot on a smeary thing near the pocket.

From here you lob a left foot out to an ok foot hold and then pull like mad on the crimps to jump into a nice finger-locky pocket. You could go direct from here, but I pop out left again with my left hand to a big side pull and lob my right hand into the pocket hold. You can then swing your right foot upto where your right hand just was and then rock over to another good pocket. The climbing gets a little easier now, but somewhat insecure. If you're tall you can rock up with the aid of some not very good holds to get the good crimps and a scary move up to the big top flattys, or if you're small a few more moves out right are needed to gain the same holds.

It's difficult to say where the crux is, but it's safe to say it's hardish climbing from the ledge upto the good crimpy pockets. Perhaps not quite the 'nails testpiece' I've been looking for, but it's a step in the right direction and proper class!


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