Monday, 19 September 2011

Video- 3 New Moors H7s


Footage of:

The fingery 'boulder problem in the sky' Die By The Sword (6c)- A biscuit for the second ascentionist.

The great line and enduro route The White Scoop (6b)

And the wild the Waves of Inspiration (6c?)


7 comments:

bridbeast said...

All very impressive but how can you be sure of the grades? Would be good to see you climb some benchmark E7s in the Peak or Yorkshire to get some valid comparision.

Franco Cookson said...

When I exhaust the moors of quality new routes I shall go and repeat other peoples. It seems very odd to climb someone else's route, when there are so many excellent unclimbed lines still out there.

Whether they're E6 or E8 doesn't really matter, what is certain is that they're superb lines in need of repeats!

Franco Cookson said...

It's worth mentioning that I've done Windows of perception on a top rope too. Whilst not a very impressive feet by it's self, combining this with the few confirmed/established E6s i've done helped me decide on the grade of 'the waves of perception', which was both harder and more dangerous climbing (more sustained, slightly easier moves). Hope this helps, Franco.

Anonymous said...

Hi Franco, just wondering why these have gone from E7 to E5? Not sandbagging stuff in response to the UKC masses are you?

Franco Cookson said...

A very good point was made to me that if new routes in the moors are graded accurately and the older routes remain at the same grade, that that is actually more dangerous for potential onsighters than everything in an area being stiff for the grade. When I've done all the existing routes in the moors I'll suggest new grades for them all, but in the mean time this is the safest option I feel. The routes are still the same, it's just the grades have changed!

jimpy said...

you need to post more franco. and what happened to that innsbruck post?

Franco Cookson said...

I won't be posting for the next 8 months I don't think, as I'll mainly be sport climbing and bouldering, which Is not very interesting to either write or read about.

I deleted the post about Innsbruck for the same reason- that I need to focus on learning German and getting strong, rather than playing around on slabs. Upsetting, but I need some discipline.

Do not worry though. We have four months of new routing action planned from next July and even a few ideas for a bit of an adventure with a photographer...