Tuesday, 22 November 2011

Thoughts On The Moors- And My New Book!

Two months in to my Innsbruck purgatory and I'm starting to see things back in the moors a lot clearer- you always do when you're away for some reason. This is all project related- unclimbed lines in the moors.

There is so much, that it has started to overwhelm me and I've been attacking them with no sensible logic or reason. I've been trying to top rope moves of routes that will be H10+, whilst having lead attempts on bouldery E7s ground up. This might be an effective way to work if you're Adam Ondra; but I aint!

This unsystematic and unprofessional way of working is most fun, which is apparently what climbing is all about, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't fueled by self-ravishing (or should that be raddishing) ambition. So how to make my four months in summer (and two weeks at the start of April it's looking like) more efficient...

So there is the mono wall.... I've been getting stronger in Innsbruck, with a mega long 10 deg. overhanging traverse on tiny holds as my own little project indoors, but not strong enough to solo font 8a or whatever it is. I have also compiled a list of 40 odd things of around E6/7 to have a look at, but I'd be lying to myself if I said I didn't want to put something up in the moors next year that is 'proper hard' by anyone's standard. So this is the dilemma of the esoteric activist... Work on one project and risk doing nowt, or fail to climb something you think really represents your abilities and passion. I don't know why, but an H10 seems a lot more appetising than 15 H7s. Hopefully we'll have time for both.

This all sounds a bit anal; as if I have already decided what is going to get climbed this year and as if there is no adventure left. This isn't the case. Perhaps this is just the waffle that surrounds my brain, that is necessary to get psyched for training, or perhaps it is actually quite absent from my head during most of the week due to my new project: My Book. And before you all start to fear, it isn't a rather premature auto-biography, it's a semi instructional and hopefully mind-bending book on how to politically manipulate children. Disturbing you might say, but I assure you it will be a best seller.


Anonymous said...

Why not focus all your energy on the mega hard project, then on the days that your project is out of condition, you're knackered or having a "feeling scared" day, then have a bash at the easier (by your fecking high standards!) projects.

It's not as if you haven't already put up a ton of stuff there. Ey, bet you wish you'd been a bit quieter about the potential there, then you'd be able to crack on without worrying about other lines getting nicked!


Franco Cookson said...

I'm not worried about my projects getting nicked- I actively send people info on lines, so they can come do em. I'm scared about dying before I have finished the development of the moors as there's so much.

Thanks for the advice though, seems like a good way to get on, though for top roping stuff i find hard means I often need rest days, which isn't conducive to getting lots of routes done.. :(