Me and Dave Teamed up with Sam Marks and Mathew Ferrier to get the development going on Sunday, choosing the largely unclimbed crag of 'The Smuggler's Terrace' for an explore. A good day, lots got done. Sam and Mathew proved to be a formidable duo after a false start on an unclimbed arete that I was sure was only VS, but turned out to be E3. Next they climbed a classy bit of wall to the left of that arete at about HVS 5b, followed by a proud crack line joining Steven Phellp's route 'Aurora Crack' on Aurora Buttresses. This looked good and got a star or two, reaching a fair old height.
|And they say there's nowt left worth doing?|
Dave Managed an impressive flash on my gear and then also re-lead it placing the gear. It's a fiddly route at the beginning, with small wires and RPs. After a tricky sequence you get into the crux, which is tricky again until you find some sinker nuts. It keeps going and a vague rest higher up lets you get a little back before the final rock over and reach, which would be fairly hard if you'd had to hang about figuring it out. Grades are tricky as usual. The crux is hard, requiring old-school flared hand jams and modern-style thin crimping. It'll be E5. Utterly no doubt it gets three stars. It's like an E5 Mongol or Regent Street.
|And on we go through the moors' corridor of classic-searching.|