Saturday, 28 July 2012

New Highball Route At Thorgill


The boulder problem start is then followed by a bit of a traverse
 Back up to Thorgill today with Sophie and Dave. Sam Mark's info on the crag came in useful again and we climbed a nice new highball wall at E5 6cish after warming up on some of Mike Adams' excellent bouldering there. Nearly managed a direct on the E5, but that will have to wait.

Thorgill highball from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.


Dave working out slightly different beta

The direct revolves around intricate moves matching thumb under-spraggs
We used five pads to pad out the landing, which is not the best- pointy rocks etc. With the 5 pads it became fairly pleasant, with a totally safe technical crux start, then followed by a traverse that was pretty pumpy and on big pockets. I managed to fingure out a reachy sequence across this wall, which added another hard move, but made it a lot less pumpy. After this there is a really high rockover and more delicate climbing above. With the sea of pads it was all protectable apart from that last rockover, which would have been a nasty fall. The holds are big and positive though, so you'd probably not fall off. Without pads it would be serious.

 Grading is tricky as always. I found it fairly steady, but I was conscious I was reaching through a lot of moves that would be hard for shorties. Dave had a lot of trouble with the start move at 5 foot 11', which made it seem 6c, considering there really is nothing to be worried about falling off that move. E5 6b could be right. Without pads it could feel pretty out there, so who knows? Even the font grade is a tricky one, could be anywhere from font 6c to font 7b for the whole sequence. Good long set of boulder moves in any case.

I'm really rather keen to get up the direct. It's close to this line, but the moves are feeling really good, if not a bit agonisingly painful.

1 comment:

Dave Warburton said...

5' 9" - i'd love to be 5' 11"!!!