Sunday, 8 July 2012

Roseberry Topping Bouldering And A New E4 6a

Great Moves
The chance of finding something dry looked fairly remote yesterday, so we went for the most wind-swept sun trap in the moors- Roseberry. The hill of Odinsberg also gets minimal seepage, so it's a fair shout if one is cursed by wet weather. It turned out to be a fair choice, even though it was a totally still day.

The Wall font 7b+
Shelf one-handed
With Sam Marks joining me, Dave and Soph today, we got to work on some of Mike Adams' additions to the boulders bellow the face- repeating a pleasant font 7a+ arete, the sit to something we had done before and the wall to the right of the shelf that gets font7b+.  The sun then came out, which was surprising and conditions then deteriorated very quickly. This meant it was time to do some routes.

Dave Leading his unnamed route
We got to work cleaning a wall which we had had our eye on for a while. After some inspection and a lot of choss-removal we got it into a decent state for the lead. A highball wall then leads to a move not really at a highball height. Gear then follows in poor rock, before a traverse right on pockets, better gear and a high rock-overing topout. We all thought it was well worth doing, but fairly serious. The slightly snappy sections of rock stop it getting any stars, but could be a pleasant top rope for anyone fancying a testing outing in safety.

A pleasant day and I was impressed by the quality of the harder problems at Roseberry. Someone has been brushing the Mike's problems viscously though. If you go to repeat these lines, please only use nylon brushes and don't brush too hard- some of the problems are permanently damaged.

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