Monday, 30 July 2012

Shoulder Manipulation- Re-dislocation

Shoulders have got too big
climbing is all about trade-offs: Strength vs. Endurance; Sport fitness vs. Boldness; Style vs. getting things done etc. etc... One trade-off that I hadn't come across though is flexibility vs. strength. I aint no scientist me- far from it, I'm a bit of a fool when it come to all things-technical, but i reckon it has something to do with tendon elasticity and strength. You'd have to ask one of those new scientific-type chappies.

If you're plonking about on english 6b/6c moves, then you don't really need to worry about this. Perhaps you'd have to lift your leg a bit to do the odd move, or even gaston if you're really feeling expressive. A recent thing up at thorgill though needs you to come onto an undercut with a couple of fingers and then spin round on your shoulder. Last year I probably wouldn't have been able to get to the undercut, but I would have had no problem twisting my shoulder out of its socket to match the hold.

When I tried it this week though I just couldn't do it. Too many fibers, too many tendons, just too ripped. O dear... So now I'm training. I've got a wooden broom and am trying to do those weird twisting things that dislocate your shoulder. I'm pretty psyched for this route.

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