|Grand Master Flash|
Alas yesterday was not so fresh- extremely warm up at Scugdale in fact. We ventured out with our sights firmly set on Grand Master Flash. As with all moors routes, a certain air of mystery surrounds this Dave Paul E5 6b. It had an onsight ascent from Steve Ramsden when he was active in the area a couple of years ago, but there's not that much info on it kicking about. I think Ben Heason said he'd done it about 10 years ago too?
With the warm weather we realised it was going to be very grim trying something fairly long like Grand Master, so we bouldered out Humbug. It gets E4 7a in the guide, which is a funny grade, but it's a grade that explains it quite well. Dave swears blind that it has been chipped since we last went, but I can't remember for the life of me what the hold looked like before. It definitely looks very square and chiseled and it felt easier than doing it the undercut way, so I wouldn't be surprised.
The route/problem is good. It's a nice move and can be done with a mooch over to the left arete at font 7aish I think- i think I'm correct in saying that this is the way Richard Waterton did it? I'm not sure what grade the direct/original is as the conditions were so bad today. It felt font 7a+/b, but I reckon it might feel more like font 6c+ if conditions were really good. Worth doing certainly and a good highball- the top's quite interesting! I can understand why the chap gave it english 7a when he did the FA if he undercutted it- that's really quite hard and just one move basically.
|Trying Humbug as a youth|
After this it cooled just a tad and we went over to a very warm Grand Master Flash. I abed it to get that o-so-common scugdale dust off the holds and because I reckoned I needed a bit of an advantage in all this heat. The crucial crimp was rather sandy, so I was pretty chuffed that I did. Respect to Steve Ramsden for soloing it onsight after it hadn't been done for years.
Dave went first and looked like he was going to onsight it, but unfortunately slipped off fairly high up. He then fell off the same point again and decided to ab down it to check the hold he was going for. Just after this I managed to flash it, which was pretty goey.
|A nice picture of Cosy Corner at Ingleby I've just found|
Dave then romped up the line once he had the same confidence in the holds that I had and we then warmed down on Monty's Leap, which is a really good eliminate.