Tuesday, 28 August 2012

New E6 up at Otterhill- Weasel Arete

The Weasel takes the left arete of the buttress
After a week of weirdness, with long walks to kay nest and badger rock, and a productive session on the Mono Wall, it was good to get out 'properly' today with Dave. The day started pretty badly on an attempt to climb a new line right of Time Captain. I got beyond my point last time and it all felt fairly steady, but i was just too unfit and pumped after the start and so jumped off. This will definitely go, but I might have to wait until I've got some route fitness. Dave found that his direct finish to Elise's Eliminate was a bit crap and so we left the crag. It was incredibly windy, so that probably effected our decision as well.

I was pretty fearful that the day was going to be lost. I've only got 2 weeks left in the Moors now and really feel like I haven't done anything yet, so wasted days aren't really acceptable. So I had a kind of negative psyche to do this arete we knew was still left to do.

The sister route of 'Otterhill Eliminate' (E2 5a)
It's a good line and we've tried to climb it twice before. Both times we've been rained off it, so today we took no chances and lobbed a top rope down it to get it quickly done.  It was fairly tricky to figure out and had a little bit of sandy rock at the bottom, so it was probably a good plan to give it a really good clean and check all the holds were bomber. There aren't any moves harder than english 6a I don't think, but the gear is not great and pretty spaced. E5? E6? Something like that. Pretty similar to No Expectations in a way, but would certainly be hard to onsight- or dangerous at least. Great line and good climbing, but the unreliability in the first 3 metres limit it to one star for me. 
New line in red, otterhill eliminate in blue

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