Thursday, 9 August 2012

Psycho Syndicate Ground Up

Top Move of Psycho (Betaguides)
I'd been up to the Wainstones last week with Dave to have a bash at a few things, one of which was Psycho Syndicate. Psycho is a rather hard line and I've had a fair few goes on it over the years. What I've never had though is a go at it when it's been clean. It's a sustained line and cleaning on route is rather hard. I abed off Dave today though and gave it a proper clean, which it really needed. It made such a difference that I did it first go today, which was excellent.
It's amazing what a difference a bit of a clean makes. Moves that I was wondering whether they were even possible felt fairly steady after a clean and it was actually enjoyable. I got some beta on my last blog post which I must thank Martin Parker and Richard Waterton for. Unfortunately it didn't seem to work for me, but I managed to get the mono undercut with my right and then get a good right foot up underneath me, so that I could layback off this and then build my left foot up and reach the small crimp below the top. I'm fairly confident this is the best sequence as it means that you don't have to pull on the horrible one finger thing. Perhaps I was just weary of doing that though as I'd ripped a tip at Danby a few days before? Who knows?
Footless Crowe E3 6b** (Betaguides)
Having a look at the main Overhang- will be pretty hard. (Lee R)
Great route and really quite knacky. I reckon it deserves a star or two and agree that it's about E5 6c. It should become a popular highball, it's really rather excellent. After this me, Lee and Dave went over and did some new routes above pads on Cold Moor/Mt. Vittoria North Buttress.

First up was a Tony Marr route that relied on some aid. Steve Crowe had already freed it with a sidepull in the adjacent route, but we reckoned it was worth doing without that. It offered a decent sharp dyno that was good. E2 6b?  Nice move. The E3 6b was almost identical, but a notch harder and its own line bridging up a scoop. A few boulder problems on the right were also good. If you turn up with 4 or more pads at Cold Moor North you can have a really good time at font 6b+-font 7a.

No comments: