Sunday, 19 August 2012

The Sphinx's Insane Brother

This is going to be a bit of a classic I think. It starts up a three star Font 7a+ boulder problem, to a lie-down break. Poor tricams can be placed here to protect you for one steady move to a couple of pegs and another poor tricam and poor cam. From here you blast off up the arete on the technical crux ( hard to figure out 6b) and undercut the 'eye' of the long-faced man whilst placing a crap RP. It then gets even better with wildly committing slaps up the upper arete on balance moves. Seems to be fairly delicate up top- you're facing a 14 metre ground-scraping whipper if it goes wrong!

Rather excited, it's like the Sphinx on acid.


Anonymous said...

Where on Earth is that, Franco. I can't believe how you unearth these things in the Moors, when I (and others) had given the area up as "worked-out"! It is the history of climbing for one generation not to recognise the opportunities still there for the next.


PS I won't be sneaking in to grab it! I'm fat and 1000km away!

Franco Cookson said...

I'm fat too- trying to loose some weight at the moment. As with everything, it's an open project- would be a bit miffing after all my efforts cleaning it and sorting the gear out though ;)

It's on the crags we named the Smuggler's Terrace, near Ravenscar on the coast. There's loads to do there, but after we do this and the left wall we're happy to leave it to the next generation- despite its quality, it's a mammoth job and a fair drive for us.

I know Jordan Buys has been in the area repeating boulder problems, so hopefully he might get enthused to repeat it.