Thursday, 22 November 2012

Obsessing on Monos

A mono to the waist- fully locked down and a back-breaker calling you in below. That's the dream. There's a lot of training needed to get to that point though.

At the moment I'm on the weight-gain crusade. I need to get fat so that training in spring is hard. I've managed to get quite a lot on and have been working on pure pull-up ability. I'm still incredibly weak, but a lot stronger than I was.

I'm a bit ignorant of all things training and in my usual 'arrogant' manner, I've declined any help from sports science. In the place of this knowledge I'm entrusting the fulfilment of my dream to chance, common sense and passion.

On the crux of the mono wall I know where my weaknesses lie- mainly in my arm and finger strength, but also in by core strength in being able to use the incredibly high and useless footholds. So there are two things to train: (1) core (2) mono pulling.

Core is a massive weakness of mine, but is easy enough to train for. It needs to be useful core and versatile through the odd moves the mono wall demands. Bouldering should help.

The mono issues are the key issue. My fingers are strong, but my arms are weak. The mono becomes quite slippy just before the hold is latched on the crux move; at the point when the mono is becoming very reflexy. So it's important to develop not only incredibly precise beta for sideways movement on the mono, but also massive reflex strength to bear-down on a slippy mono.

I'm going quite insane with this route now. The micro matters though and the great passion for the intricacies of a unique mono are a further definition of climbing. I need to get stronger.

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