Saturday, 5 January 2013

Last year and Next Year

Finally climbing Ingham's testpiece, after I eventually cleaned it

I've made a habit over the last five years of writing a post on the turn of the new year, evaluating how the last year has gone and what I want to get done in the following year. I don't particularly want to write one this year, as I don't really feel like I've done a lot, but I enjoy reading what I was thinking over the past few years, so I should stick to it...

The Tormented Sole (E7 6b***)
The year for me was basically just 3 months of summer in the Moors. I was out with the usual chaps and we got on a lot of things. Strong and scared pretty much sums up how we were climbing. I worked on a lot of the last established things in the area which I hadn't done and I also worked out a few new lines too.

Jumping for the FA of 'Footless Crowe' (E3 6b*)

some early-season action:
Round Crag - Honey Badger FA (E5), Heel of Approval (E4) and Tournament of Shadows FA (E4) from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

A nice new E5 highball at Thorgill:
Thorgill highball from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
Thorgill highball from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

The expected break-through into new ground never really came. I certainly always feel as if I am climbing better than ever, but after the lack of climbing anything hard I started to wonder if this was actually true.

Feeling strong at the start of the season on a Mike Adam's classic at Roseberry
The Smuggler's Terrace just kept on giving this year. Here dooge is on the strong crackline 'Psychosis' (E5- 6b ***)
No big E-grades was another theme of the summer, but so too was actually climbing things I wanted to climb. I took great enjoyment out of climbing a wall I had been trying since I started climbing- the physical 'graffiti proj'- named at a time when I was really into led zep. I also got close on a couple of brill new lines ground-up. One of these was the airy right-hand finish to Time Captain and the other was the pearl of a new crag found by Sam Marks et al.
One of Dan Lane's photos of a new line we climbed 3 years ago: Central Crack (E2 5c**)
So that brings me quite nicely into the new year. I'd like to get these things done of course and I know there are another couple of dozen things of this nature to be climbed. Beyond that there is the really irritating feeling of having hit a plateau. The idea that I could have actually got to my limit- not due to my body, but because of the weakness of my mind- horrifies me. I almost want to climb something harder than I've ever climbed before just to prove that I'm not on the slippery slope to old-age. In April I'll turn 22- that seems quite old to me when I'm thinking about the necessity for rash decisions and stretchy legs, so I certainly don't feel as though I have time for drifting about.
Having a look at the "impossible-looking wall". Aye, looks pretty reachy.
I miss the Moors, but I'll be back


Dave Warburton said...

Strange image of Sole. Makes it look like your soloing (which you sort of are) and that you are on a highball; which you are not.

Franco Cookson said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Franco Cookson said...

yeh, that's what I thought. Looks like an 8 metre solo... We can get one from far away when someone does the direct.