Sunday, 31 March 2013

A New Bouldering Area For The North York Moors

Where The Wild Things Are (font 6b)
 It's always great to come back to the Moors: away from the stress, loads of sunshine and the hope of new rock. My main reason for coming home was to have a session on the Mono Wall, which went very well and I'm feeling close to being able to go for it now. It will have to wait till after my exams in June though. After I had a look on the Mono Wall, I went for a bit of an explore about, searching for boulders.
The Wild Horses Of Danby

Everyone seems to be at it these days in the Moors and the amount of rock uncovered is mind boggling really. There's a bit of disagreement about who uncovered what, but the main thing is that it's been discovered and hopefully will end up recorded in some usable format in a guide or something.

I headed back to the crag with Dave, Sam and Ferrier. The mood was very relaxed, perhaps too relaxed, but the quality of the new problems raised everyones' spirits a little.
A Rather Wet-Looking Fairy Cross

Labyrinth font ~7a+

The new area surrounds a large tabletop hill, with Danby Crag to the north and the new venues of 'The Fairy Cross Boulders', 'Freyr's Nab' and 'The Finkelstones' to the west, south and east respectively. Before Sam and Ferrier had arrived, me and Dave had already warmed up on a few unclimbed lines on the west side of the hill. The Fairy Cross group is totally new and hidden from the road by a couple of pine trees. The aspect is open though and the rock clean and crisp. Most of the stuff was font 5+- font 6b.  We didn't get any pictures of us climbing, but above is a picture of the right side of the crag.
Freyr's Arete Last Year.
We originally left Freyr's crag unreported, but it turns out that it's on access land.
Trying a wacky roof ~font 7c

We'd already climbed most of the stuff at Freyr's (pictured above), so we bombed straight over to all the unclimbed stuff in the eastern woods we later names 'The Finkelstones' (named after Finkel House below). Most of these woods are on open access land, but are best approached from the Fairy Cross Boulders as that's the only way through the surrounding fields on a right of way. It's a bit of a walk, but extremely pleasant and easy underfoot.
The Finkel Slab


Getting my bold shoes on ~ font 7b

First up was the Finkel Slab, which provided loads of stuff and there's still a couple of things we didn't manage there. We then moved north and gradually picked off problems here and there.  The Prow is worth particular note and is monstrous. With only two pads though it was too dangerous for us to really try, as it's really high and the landing is not great. Sam found a nice prow to the left of it though that we all climbed and there's other stuff that looked good that we didn't try.
A great bit of fun just by the big prow.  ~font 6b+

Wizards of the Night font ~6b (7a with left-hand finish)

Further north again and past a collapsed wall, the third group of boulders is gained. These are great. There's a pocketed wall which we climbed all but one line on, providing loads of fun in the low to mid font 6s.
Swapping thumb for index after the crux of Bambino (font 7b?)

Below this is a really fun ~font 7a+ thing, with a direct that we didn't quite manage at 7c, coming through a roof with a great heel move. Below this is another large boulder with some interesting stuff on, including a great 6a. A few yards to the right is a fun porthole problem and then the warren, which is a collection of walls boasting a tip top rising traverse at font 7a and a direct thumb sprag thing which was probably quite hard. That could be anywhere from font 6c-7c. Really no idea, no one else could get their thumb in.

Tip Top day again!





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