Solo Exploration In The North York Moors from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.
A typical day out exploring the Moors by myself.
The Golden Nugget (font 6b) (new venue)
Spawn Of The Hunt (E5 5c) (new route)
Unnamed Prow (font 6b+) (new venue)
Monday, 26 August 2013
Tuesday, 13 August 2013
|Flashing 'Stuck In The Sky' (E7 6c**)|
A friend from Sheffield came up for the day and wanted to sample Moors climbing at HVS and below. We had a sunny day for it, which made for a nice time on the classics. In addition to this, a huge amount of new routes got climbed. Matt Ferrier and Sam Marks were on form, first climbing a new E1 5b* in the central bay, before tackling an oft-eyed arete that went at E3 6a**. The former is an interesting wall protected by a small thread and cam, demanding a large span, or utterly desperate intricacies. The latter was a well-protected arete that just seemed to keep going a bit too long. A few falls were had on that.
These all looked like real good fun, but the lads quickly moved onto try a new slab to the left. Sam managed to effectively onsight it, with just a little bit of info on which holds were good (I'd cleaned it). Ferrier got o so close as well, but ended up taking a pretty serious fall down the slab. Unscathed and still keen for another battle! They called it Swift-Tuttle, after the recent meteor activity. I had thought this line would be E6 6a/b, but they seemed happy with the gear.. Interesting one anyway, and substantially harder for the short.
|Sam Onsight, On The First Ascent Of 'Swift Tuttle' E5 6b**|
|Matt going for the FA of 'Parseids' E3 6a**|
The day was rounded off by me trying to flash another thing that looked about E7. I backed off. It was solo and revolved around a very large flat undercut, some smeary feet, long reaches and one brilliant two finger nubbin crimp. The wall is quite steep, perhaps overhanging slightly and it feels really exposed. It's one of those lines you almost miss, right in the centre of the amphitheatre, but once you ab down it, it all makes sense. It's actually one of the things in the Moors that is interesting me the most at the moment, just for the quality of the moves. It will have to wait anyway now, I'm officially a Munich resident!
Posted by Franco Cookson Written Tuesday, August 13, 2013
Monday, 12 August 2013
|Apparently a nice E1... I'm not even gonna debate this. 2 stars anyway.|
Anyway, I went for a mammoth exploratory walk the other day. I started off in Westerdale and had a look at the rocks at the top of the head. I had been to a rockface up here on the way back from Kay Nest once and fancied a boulder about on this. With time being a bit of an issue I quickly climbed the best-looking line there, a fine arete from sit, that was basically a Severe with a font 6b sit start to it. Brilliant rock, I called it 'The Golden Nugget'.
|Not a bad line like!|
|The Moorenjura (E2 6b *)|
|Pot Of Gold...|
More trance and more pace, blasting over the Moor. The wind was up and the Ronhills were on, onto the highest point of the Moors. I stood a moment in thought, figured out the best approach and then gently walked down. It looked good! Three bays, with a range of different types of climbing - 12 metre jutting aretes, with a lot of exposure and big holds; 8 metre super-highball slappy E6/7 6cs on jutting prows; 6 metre technical walls and grooves.
|About as psyched as a Herring|
|I think Dave needs a pad sponsor|
Posted by Franco Cookson Written Monday, August 12, 2013
Sunday, 4 August 2013
Why Moors new-routing is so fun: Go to the crag, rap and clean a line, lie around in the sun, try and boulder it out for ages, declare it too hard for you, manage to do the bottom boulder problem, freak out on the top and take a fun jump, get too tired to climb any more, still manage to scrape up it before you get eaten by midges.
Posted by Franco Cookson Written Sunday, August 04, 2013
Thursday, 1 August 2013
|The Wall - I'm indebted to Jake for these photos.|
I can now die a happy man. 5 years of Moors development finally came to a head today, as I set out on the Mono Wall, with only a pair of shorts, a helmet, chalk and some shoes. Conditions were terrible, with the heat evaporating the last 2 days' worth of rain and sun beaming right down upon us, but it was Yorkshire day and we were all there. Matt and Jake got some shots and Sam boldly stood below the wall, with some strange intention of trying to spot. Mania swept forth and the excitement bubbled around. Today could be the day we climb this wall....
|Enjoying the sun|
|Ferrier getting some pads in|
|A nice comfy landing|
|In a zone, not quite sure which one|
And as you set out on the wall, it waves up and looks like it's about to break right upon you. Psy mon says you're about to die. A slippidy sloppidy smear, through overhanging fear. When the foul foot slips, then off your finger rips - for tis but a pinky, deep and wedged in a hole! When the pinkies remain, then all you gain is more death. Stood, no hanging on a bulge, not made for mortal man.
|Fighting hard on the lower wall|
|Glad I lost all that weight to hang on little fingers!|
Posted by Franco Cookson Written Thursday, August 01, 2013