Wednesday, 25 September 2013

NY Moors Trad Report - Summer 2013


Good Rock
And as the lost chalk balls begin to rot and bemushen themselves in the soggy soil of the forgotten corners of the Moors, we look back at what pieces of rock gave themselves to be ravaged by moorland developers.
Sunny Stoupe and its massive pottential

The numbers of people climbing on the Moors increase. The desperate hands clasp in greater numbers. So what happened this year?
I can still feel the cold in this picture. Spring ey, feels long ago..
After a spring of the usual boudlering discoveries, Sam Marks kicked off the new routes with some bilge additions to Duck Crag in April. Duck was discovered last year by Marks and his team of southern Moorers and they've been gradually working things out down there. After this development sloped off, with more bouldering, injuries and everyone being a bit busy.
New routing at its best - onsight on Stuck In The Sky (E7 6c**)
It wasn't untill the end of June really that things started to happen on the trad front. Rare things got repeated, like the Tarn Hole classic 'A reach too far', 'Chocolate Moose' at Danby and 'Rock Bottom' at Raven's Scar. Mixed in with these were a couple of new routes like 'The Breaking Wheel' (E5 6c) and 'Five Years On' (E4 7a). Whilst these were effectively glorified boulder problems, it was an important phase in the Moors, with this style of hard and safe being a rare thing.

It was then that Pyskovsky's sequins was climbed, bringing Danby once again to national attentions. People are getting more and more interested in Danby, but it's still yet to really see a lot of visits. It doesn't even look like it's going to be that long until it's fully worked out with about another 10 lines between E5 and H11. Exciting stuff! The handful of stuff at the lower end of this range didn't quite get climbed, which was a little disappointing and surprising.
New Moves, Ferrier flys high.

Straight after this was the flirtation with the coast. It was almost as if all the pain of the Moors had to be compensated for by a trip to the seaside. A few things got climbed, which has helped to further establish the coast as a prime resort for the mid-extreme climber. Panda to the Masses (E6 6c) was a particular gem, born out of a rock structure that looked a bit naff. Surprises like this are really pleasant.

After the recoup it was back into the heart of the Moors, with Tranmire exploding in a maze of opportunity. New lines on brill rock bubbled up left, right and centre, giving that spectacular climax that so often happens towardes the end of the Moors season.
Nothing Changes
After my own departure, things have continued to evolve. Ferrier, Warburton and Marks have been racing around the high dales finding new crags. Rock that looks superb!
It's become a cliche now, but oway, how did I never find this?
Another ascent worth mentioning is Steve Ramsden's recent addition to Stoupe Brow. His route 'Ram-Raid' takes the proud central scoop of Walrus Buttress, with runners in Central crack. Oft-eyed and a bit of a cracker at E6 6c.

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