Thursday, 10 October 2013

The Kepwick Groove Is Climbed - E8 7a - 'Gold'

Richard on the scrittly 7a crux (Photo: Jo Banner)
I always say that I don't mind who climbs routes in the Moors, as long as they just get climbed. It's easy to say that, but it's difficult to control the envy when you're stuck in Munich, training for the Wangledoodle Wall for the next few months, whilst Richard Waterton is waltzing his way up classic Moorland last great problems. But yes, I'm fairly ecstactic that this thing has been climbed. I mean wow! The Kepwick Groove!

The wall is scary. It's small of course (big for the Moors, at about 10-12 metres), but it's fairly overwhelming when you first see it and if your gear rips, you're gonna die. To know it's now been climbed is really cool. It's like another addition to the small Moors family of routes above E6 and a good one at that.

This is the start of 'Gold', combined with the left-hand finish. (E8ish, with one skyhook for gear)

Link of the Kepwick Groove from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

He climbed it with side-runners, which actually fit quite well with the route. I'm not one to support side-runners, but if ever side-runners made sense, it's here. Of course the potential there to climb the line without the side-runners is appealing, but we'll have to see what happens. I think the left-hand with just the skyhook would be a good outing at about E8 6c, but the right-hand is proper deathy. Perhaps it would be a good project when I live outside of the Moors, as its so far away from Castleton, whilst being very approachable from the south.

Let's hope it's the start of a load of new routes from Richard.

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