January. I'm back in the Moors and it's chilly! I've been pretty active over the last three days, with a night up at Ingleby Incline in a snow storm, getting some early-season chalk on the direct finish to Time Captain. Snow stopped play when we woke up on the Sunday morning and we very nearly didn't get back to Castleton at all. The overhang of the A2 'Dropout' is flanked by two lines - this direct and then a lip traverse on the right-hand side out of Cosy Corner. Both routes look good and English 7a. Hopefully Time Bandits Direct will go ground up and then I'll probably lob a rope down the lip.
After a wild weekend I ventured back to the best crag in the Esk Valley. The Hypocrisy of Moose, Psykovsky's sequins - they've all had a party this christmas and look pretty hungover. The unclimbed lines are all soaked, but I managed to get some good digging in to free up the top outs and spotted a new line that looks good. A lot of work, but hopefully the projects will stay dry now. Next step is to brush the clay off when they dry out a bit.
It's lonely up here, but it's exciting. I'm loving being outside. Concerns on building some boulder strength have taken a back burner, as I work to make sure the lines are clean enough to even get on. The Moors season really hasn't begun yet and it's tough getting out on these really rather wild days. A bit of bouldering up at Westerdale View Quarry tonight offered a little respite and the last project there is looking like it might go soon.
Monday, 27 January 2014
Tuesday, 7 January 2014
Monday, 6 January 2014
|Sketching Out Early On|
Luke had a fairly unorthodox way of "showing us the ropes"
|Our first ropes nice and shinny and about|
to be used on the North Crag of Castle Rock
Whilst 15 seems quite young now, it was only a couple of years before I was to leave the North York Moors for uni. Despite fast progress in our climbing (due to climbing most of the time we should have been studying), by the time we left we were nowhere near climbing at the level we needed to really get the most out of the Moors. This means that I've never actually been in the Moors for any length of time whilst having the ability to do the things I wanted. All the routes I've done over the past 4 1/2 years have been done in quick hits of a month or less.
Now this is all planned to change. I'm going to be living in the North York Moors again! Words cannot express how excited I am to be there: In the wind and rain on the bad days, out hanging from cruxes on the dry ones. Probably from the end of January until June - a good wodge of time.
It's going to be lonely: most of the Moors scene isn't there anymore. The bouldering contingent from Hull has started to focus on other places since the completion of the bouldering guide, Dave and Matt Ferrier are at Leeds and Sheffield Uni respectively, and Sam Marx seems to be in the gallivanting stage - putting climbing on the back-burner. But I have the rocks and I have myself. It's almost a form of meditation being on the Moors and being there by yourself can really help one focus.
So alone on the Moors? I want to bivy lots: spends days out, covering large distances, reccing crags and getting psyched. Dave has built some indoor climbing centre in a barn that may become the final missing piece required to bring the Moors into the modern age.
Posted by Franco Cookson Written Monday, January 06, 2014
Thursday, 2 January 2014
The big question is of course: Was that enough? Is that a big enough route to call an end to my climbing? Of course it isn't! haha. I'm really excited to try and do something harder.
Posted by Franco Cookson Written Thursday, January 02, 2014