Thursday, 2 January 2014


For me the highlight of 2013 was a day at Tranmire. Out with good friends, in the sun, climbing new lines, onsight and scraping on through; it really doesn't get any better than that. The whole year had a good feeling to it however, with all those many months away from the Moors being filled with dreaming, reliving great moments and being there in absentia.

Having the ability to be in a place mentally, that physically you're hundreds of miles away from is a great skill. With distance comes perspective and a break of stagnation; new ways of percieving things. You actually only need to be phyiscally there about 10% of the time, with the mental game being a much bigger part. In hindsight, the breakthrough on the Mono Wall came in May-July. Accepting what the experience might be and the risks; far more important than how many little finger pullups you can do.

The big question is of course: Was that enough? Is that a big enough route to call an end to my climbing? Of course it isn't! haha. I'm really excited to try and do something harder.

This year is probably going to involve me trying to climb some of the other 'magic lines' left in the Moors. There are some real gems in the H8-H10 range that really need climbing and I think a little consolidation at this would be not only good for the Moors, but also good for me. The obvious ambition after this is to do something harder than Psykovsky's Sequins. There are things in the Moors that may fit that bill, but whether they are possible and (more importantly!) possible for me, is another question. I'm fairly sure I'd struggle on anything compressiony even at E7, nevermind at the lofty grades, so the style of the routes I find are going to have to fit my strengths.

Maybe this will be two or three years down the line, but I think there may come a point where I have to decide between the Moors and progression in my climbing.
2014 is about the first steps on this next voyage then. It's looking like I'm finally going to get back into the UK around February time. This could be for just a few weeks, or a good few months!