Saturday, 22 February 2014

New E6s And E7s At Glaisdale Rigg

Glaisdale Rigg is turning out to be a most splendid venue. We had a pretty good few days on the boulder problems a few weeks ago, but I wasn't convinced that the routes were going to be pleasant, as they looked quite bold! Dave convinced me to have a look though and, armed with a few pads, we went to see what was what.

The rigg is a series of quarries; a few minutes apart and 5 minutes from the road. The first one is mainly bouldering, with some good stuff in the font 6s and font 7s and home to a couple of low E grade routes that we did today. The next quarry along is taller and has some good blank buttresses and then after this is another quarry, with even harder lines.

Last week we climbed the plum line of the second quarry, which goes first through a roof and then trends left. Some very small crimps, balance and a bit of exposure. Top route! I hope this get some repeats and should do at low E5.

Finishing off this day, we tried to climb the scoop to the left, which looked harder and indeed was. It started off with sidepulls around a rib, which climb higher and higher until a good crimp. More moves lead to a sloper and then an excellent move trying to reach crimps much higher, with very high feet. We chickened out of this move a lot and then gave up. It's not too high, but with only a couple of mats, it's a fairly serious drop.

Back today, with this scoop in mind, which we had down as font 7c/ E7 7a. This ended up getting done first go, which was top notch. One of those amazing experiences where the moves just flow and everything feels easy. It's a brill piece of rock. We also managed to get an extraordinarily reachy line done in the far quarry. I'd had a shunt of this, as the move was fairly on-off. I thought this sequence was top badger really, with a crimp that was pretty hard to hold and then some nice foot beta and a pop for a ledge. You start at the arete (which is unclimbed), climb higher for a few moves and then get a poor gaston and an undercut. left foot out on a good hold, stab your right foot as a smear and then span for your life to the sidepully tiny crimps. Another pleasant sequence.

It was already shaping up as a pretty good day at this point, with much more than I thought we'd get done already climbed, but there was still time to headpoint some twin cracks, with a really pokey 6a/b move at the top. We gave this E6 6a.  This one had quite a high feel to it, with some strange mantel-shelving lower down and then a scary finish that required a good bit of bridging.

All of the routes were two or three stars, which was perhaps the best news. Good to have these kind of days out. Good rest days between working routes. There's a distinct lack of photos and videos at the moment, but not to worry, I'm sure these will be repeated fairly soon.

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