Tuesday, 11 February 2014

Unclimbed Lines At Danby

So here we go. This is my dream - to see all these climbed!

The Wangledoodle Wall H10/E10? 7a
Class line, up a hairline crack and then out onto a perfect square arete. 2 R.P. lowish down protect the moves to the arete. The hard climbing starts on the hairline crack, before another hard move out to the arete. Controlling the swing onto this is then really hard and then every move from here to the top just gets harder. The last move hasn't really been done in a way that would be replicatable on lead.

The Jesus Project H9/E9? 7b
Gear at half height will protect sort of and it's not that tall. Certainly not a safe fall, but would only really be H9 for the difficulty of the move (which hasn't even been done on top rope).

Rump de Stump H9/E10? 7a
Looks eliminate, but isn't really. Good climbing on a nice feature. Short and very serious (solo above very steep ground and rocks). Comes down to 3 moves on a very positive arete, with some powerful, balancey compression.

Frowning Buttress H8 7b
The wall of the alcove is protectable with bouldering mats low down. Pretty tough I reckon!

Osiris Groove E6 6a
Steady away, interesting climbing up the bold groove. Some small wires. Gets a bit close to a tree at one point. 

Death Arete H5/E7? 6a
Not massively taxing, but extremely bold. A very small cam may hold a fall, but you want to be doing it first time! Nice pure line though.

Vulcan Arete E7 6c
Very nice feature with some holds low down that are pretty gruesome. Some nice moves at the top though. Basically 3 font 7a boulder problems in a row.

Eastern Slab E6 6b?
Space for a few routes up here.

Guillotine Project E7 6c
Bold. Hard last move. 

Alcove Alter E6 6c
 A big fat slab, with two small flakes. This should be very good and more or less protectable with mats.

And then totally futuristic:

The Impossible Arete H12? 7b?
Crazy. Perhaps worth thinking about when someone does the Wangledoodle Wall. Effectively soloing its hardest moves and with a ludicrous start.

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