Friday, 4 April 2014

A Bit More Of An Explore - Kaynest

On The FA Of Triptonite - Tarn Hole
The early April lull is in full swing. A bit of work, a bit of a relax, a funeral and visiting some friends. A big cloud has firmly sat on the UK and drizzle has set in. We're coming to the end of it now I reckon and I'm feeling light and psyched.

I haven't led or soloed anything in the last couple of weeks, but I have been out on the shunt a lot and am getting a few things fairly wired. In my last post, I talked of four projects that I could see getting climbed fairly soon. Instead of being sensible and trying to get these climbed, we've gone out hunting for other things with some good finds. I say finds, we already knew about them before, but now they're dialed and ready to add to this list of H8s ready for the lead

We've been out in Tripsdale a lot recently and climbed a stonking line coming out of the Tarnhole cave on the left a few weeks ago. That was really a lot of fun. More recently I was further west at Kaynest. There is a tonne of stuff to do here, with THE talked about line being the unfreed aid route. On a shunt the climbing is fairly straightforward. Typical Moors wall climbing on big holds protected by a line of old aid bolts. I'm terrible at french grades, but this should probably have one as it's so long - F7something reasonably high(?) No idea really. The problem is that I can bend the bolts with my hands, so I'm not optimistic that a fall would be arrested. The last move is either a 7a stable razor hold and gaston balance, or a 6c dyno- hard to know which one to go for given the gear. Anyway, there's a lot to do there and still a few things left at Tranmire (just over the hill).

 Further to this, we've been getting more local projects dialed. The Jesus and Rump De Stump lines are getting really close to being soloable, which is just pure excitement. Dave is back now as well, for about a week I think, so if the weather just eases a touch it'll mean we can get 8 pads to the crag, which will enable a lot of stuff to get climbed - especially the last few routes at Thorgill and Hillhouse. It's a world of opportunity at the moment and as long as we don't get injured the Moors may have half a dozen new H8s in a month or so. How wild!

No comments: