Monday, 14 April 2014

Lounging In The Sun At Glaisdale



I got a couple of shots today that show the Glaisdale quarries quite well. I bought a decent phone and it turns out it's not that bad at taking photos. I'd love an SLR like, but I'll have to wait till I have some money.  The route above is Franziskaner (E6 6cish), named after the very good Bavarian wheat beer (available in Sainsbury's). The lower picture 'Gnedl Maedl' (dumpling girl in Lower Bavarian) - a bit of a freighter at E6 6a.

It was perhaps the first day in a long time where I have made no progress. Dave had insisted on going to a south-facing sheltered crag and it was ridiculously warm, so I sat around for a long time. I had a go at shunting an unclimbed arete, but it was just eliminate and rubbish, so I sacked that off. I then worked an unclimbed wall, which was a bit touch and go. I tried to solo this as it got a bit cooler, feeling surprisingly solid on it, only to rip the crux hold off and fly down the bad landing. Falling on my broken ankle was exactly what I didn't want to do, but luckily I managed to fall over in a funny way and it was alright. I tried it again, brushing the new stump of the hold so that it was a bit clean. I felt solid again and was chuffed that the move had become a bit harder. And then BANG, it ripped again. Luckily landing okay for a second time, I sacked it off. Better to preserve the tips than climb this thing, I thought. It's rare for holds to snap like that in the moors, but then I suppose one should expect it on rock that has never been climbed on. I enjoyed sitting around and drinking tea though - was a good reward for yesterday's wildness.

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