Wednesday, 16 April 2014

New Thorgill Highballs - An English 7b Move?

Finally Latching The Pocket Once The Sprags  Are Turned
Thorgill crag is wonderfully located and home to a good bit of bouldering. Its routes are less good, with only a couple of things sub-extreme of much interest. The highballing circuit is coming along nicely now, with a bit in the E5-7 range. We started off the day by climbing a line right of Parochial Dream that went at H6 6c with a few pads (would be a lot bolder without them). It's a great highball, very technical and reasonably sustained.
A Unique Move?
The real niggle in my mind though was the direct start. It's something I've been trying for nearly a year now, with about 20 goes at it above pads. It starts off up a slab next to some rocks, before rearing out across the bulge on undercuts. After this you go up to a small down-ward pointing spike with first your left thumb and then your right. A double thumb undersprag! What a bizarre move! As a bit of a connoisseur of weird finger moves, it was something that was really top of my list. The start is basically just a boulder problem and then it finishes up the 6c crux of Wheat From The Chaff. It's no great line, but it is a great move.
Wheat From The Chaff (H6 6c) from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.

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