Saturday, 12 July 2014

The Agony Of Choice!

So, there are still moors. Loads of moors in the Moors. A pile of rock. You end up doing nothing there is so much to do - it's really warm today. I've not done a list for a while and I think I'm in a really good position now to make a list of the best things left to do in the Moors. These lists always seem massively out of date very quickly, so be warned! - That's sort of the main reason for doing them. There's a great feeling of progress when you look at what you thought was impossible 3 months ago. Anyway.... I'm going to put these in quality order. quality of experience over route maybe... The ones I want to do first...

1) Sunrise Wall
Alright, I don't actually want to do this anytime soon, but it is probably the only real new wave route I know of that is likely to be possible. If Snap Back wasn't new wave, then this thing definitely is. There's no point trying to describe that headwall to you. Just ab it! The moves are hard and there's no gear. Certain death.

2) The Futuristic Herring Gull Project
Brilliant sharp slab climbing. Massive moves, enchanted.  Unlike anything else I know of on the Moors.


3) The Magic Scoop
I love that I nearly have this wired. It's the sort of thing that you don't think is possible when you're starting out. It's a really nice piece of rock.



4) The Landslip Arete
There's quite a good challenge on this one. The rock's not the best low down, but that's being a little mean. The move is one of those that feels a bit too hard, but I'm sure will be possible once the old fingers get a bit stronger - maybe one for spring of next year after a bit of winter training.


5) The Tormented Sole Direct
A lovely line of quite an old-fashioned nature. The crux is fairly stretchy, but it's nowt out of this world. It's going to be one of the best routes around like. 

6) The Wangledoodle Wall
This is really good, but it's going to take a good climber to climb it - one with muscles. There aren't a lot of 'holds' as such, but it is possible. 

6) Kay Nest Arete
This is going to have to wait until winter. Hard moves. Basically a very high boulder problem, but the feature is fantastic.

4 Other things:

7) The Possum
A really big pitch. It would be really good to put something modern up at Whitestone. This line is particularly good as it's seemingly ridiculous and climbs the largest part of the cliff. The protection isn't abysmal, but obviously you don't want to be falling off!

8) Rump De Stump
Bold. No prizes for line, but surely you can see past that and enjoy the climbing? There's something very homely about the way this route climbs.

9)Tranmire Wall
wooohooo! haha, if you catch it dry that top move is a real cool one. Scary.


10) Kay Nest Aid Line
Well, it's got to be on the list. The climbing is pretty nice. It's lost a few bolts now, so it's also fairly serious. Another one with a good last move!



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