How strange that so soon after thinking I was near a breakthrough, it came. power of the subconscious? deluded? It does make you think about how much power the mind has over the body. Either its just a massive coincidence, I was holding myself back, or I really am in tune with some higher force.
Anyway, the most splendid moment of the past 6 months happened in a daze, on the cusp of darkness, Sunday night. The Kay Nest Aid wall has been causing all sorts of difficulties for me. It's not managing to do the individual moves, nor linking them, but finding THE way to do them. The crux is a very complicated web of structures that can provide a passage through via an array of movements. Scraping through one of these would suffice for a safe or reasonably bold climb, but for an absolute solo, you need to make sure you find the best move for you.
The best sequence is not simply the easiest, nor even the most secure. It is the one with the least dodgey foot swaps, the least high foot steps, the least barndoors, the least low percentage moves, the least moves that freak you out, the most holds that allow for readjustment. Ultimately, you never quite know on a complex route, but you can find something that just feels "good". On Sunday evening, in a bath of orange light, I found that move.
It was so simple it was laughable it had taken me this long to find it, but I think it was only really possible to do it in a secure way since I've been strengthening my fingers. I have naturally strong fingers twinned with decent tip skin, but now and then I push them a little more to see what they're really capable of. They're probably close to the strongest they've ever been and, working with new bits and bobs of technique, I reckon I'm about near peak ability.
The last two remaining factors are head and weight. My head is in a good place right now. Weight is a bit high, but I've been dieting for about 2 weeks now and have lost about half a stone. If I can get my weight down to about a stone or more below what I usually am (not exactly fat), that crimp is going to feel an awful lot bigger. Tendons, span and feather-weight madness.