Saturday, 11 April 2015
Starting To Feel Like A Route
I was originally intending on starting the route from the ledge on the right. I was keen not to follow the pointlessly convoluted line out left that the original line of bolts followed and really tried to interpret the features in their most natural way. I struggled with this.
Over the last two weeks I've had holiday and been lucky-enough to be joined by Matt and Dave on the line and they've each brought something to the project. Matt's been really useful in working as an inspiration for climbing the moves. He tried a lot and reckoned it was hard - which was just what was needed for my pondering about the route - I need to feel like I'm doing something outrageous. Dave brought his own little bit of traditionalist bigotry to the line, arguing that it should follow the line of bolts. Whilst I knew Dave was wrong and that he was being a grumpy moron, the centrepiece of his argument was that starting on the ledge was a bit crap.
I wasn't so sure. The line of weakness started on the ledge and although the traverse off it is dirty and vegetated, that's the simplest way to climb it. My underlying issue was that I didn't want to add an arbitrary extra 6c move to the project that would waste time, add danger and just be a general annoyance. Luckily though, spirit of the Moors provided a compromise.
After declaring a move that me and Matt thought around 6c to be "6aish" and saying everything was piss, Dave ordered me to lower him a little on the top rope and he found a flake on the lower wall. This lower wall was fairly dirty and so a lot of the holds couldn't be seen. I'd always wanted to start up it, but it looked like the kind of impossible thing that was just a waste of time. It's an impressively big bit of rock however and Dave found a long flake at the bottom, right below the gear that you use for the upper section. Unfortunately this wall is undercut and between this long flake and the gear is a fair few metres of more or less totally blank wall. There was one tiny crimp and we joked about a future "font 8b" up it.
I decided to have a look and agreed with Dave's prognosis. Blank. Shortly after this though, I found a deep and very good mono/two finger pocket way out right. It looked ludicrously infeasible to get there from the flake, but (to cut a long story short) it ended up working out. It was a class moment in the end, with it not only being possible, but also that rare breed of move that allows seemingly impossible spans to be achieved. The escapability out right after this move actually enables this problem to be one of the best boulder problems in the Moors. I think this has been one of the best discoveries so far on this climb and I'm ecstatic that at the very least, a class new boulder has been born.
It's back to normality for the next 7 weeks now. Hopefully I can lose a bit more weight, carry on with finger strength gains and pop in for the odd session before the next half-term. The only factors that could really hold me back now are temperature or injury. Conditions have been bad over the last few weeks and I've still managed to slip my way though the crux, so a cold spell should sort me right out.
Posted by Franco Cookson Written Saturday, April 11, 2015