Saturday, 11 July 2015

Danby Dreaming


There are different kinds of dreams. Firstly, you have the abstract visual dream, usually asleep, which is fed by the subconscious. Secondly there is the hope for a future that manifests itself as a day dream, where a wanted outcome is possible. This can take over your life and repeat itself over and over again. This is the kind of dreaming that feeds an obsession. The third kind of dream genisises the vision of the second kind of dreaming, but without a real hope for that future state to ever exist. Through perceived impossibility this quickly turns into something that does not harang and torment, but stays a distant torch of future possibility. There is no pressure on you to create the world where this dream is reality, because you see it as something so totally unlikely.
I have several of these kinds of dreams. They often bring a very deep sense of peace. One of these could have been the idea of a developed Moors, where crags are well documented and many of the harder routes climbed. This obviously still isn’t quite reality, but a dream that is nearing this world is that of Danby Crag.

When I first looked at potential new bits and bobs at Danby in 2008, the idea of putting up 1 new HVS on one of the bits of rock there excited me. When I later managed to climb the Hypocrisy of Moose on what I thought was one of the only unclimbed pieces of rock at the crag, my perception of the crag (and world) span into a new space. Still to this day, the feeling I get from thinking about the first time I swung onto the double gastons of the Moose gives me hard jagged hairs on my arms.

The phase after the Moose gave me a catalogue of routes that could one day exist at Danby. It was the kind of wishlist that a kid makes at school detailing the international footballers he'd have in his perfect football team. At that stage it was never something that I thought would one day become a reality and as such it didn't haunt me like the individual projects I had.
Me trying it 5 years ago
Yesterday I was at Danby Crag watching Mark Rankine, belayed by Verity, climb the 'Arete Project left of Vulcan'. It's a project that I tried now and then in between things, but never quite managed due to skin, seepage and just having so much on. In a sense it became a real nemesis for me and is the only thing I've tried to lead and not managed to do. Mark cleaned it up properly and found a sensible way of doing the middle bit, which was the bit I fell off.

So it's fantastic to see that last little tesserae fit into place. It's a beautiful line, with the last sequence being particularly amazing. There now remains only 1 good line out of the original 20 or so left to do at Danby - the Wangledoodle Wall...

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