Monday, 11 April 2016

Barry's Deranged Side

You get a feeling sometimes that a day is going to be really special. As the day progresses, you start to get a bit worried that it might not turn out like you wanted. Fortunately yesterday's gamble paid off and through injured fingers and illness we managed to climb some stunning lines.

Anna Healy on Piton Crack (font 6c)
The Barry Boulder at Stoupe is outrageous from every angle. There are brilliant highballs all around the shorter sides of the boulder and then a south-western face that inspires pure horror. For me there are 3 obvious lines on this face: Chuckie Egg (font 7b - the left arĂȘte and hanging scoop); The groove; and then the wall in between. I always had the wall pencilled in as impossible, so when Steve Ramsden climbed Chuckie Egg, I knew we had to get our skates on with the scoop.
Dave on (and off) Chuckie Egg (font 7b)
It's a blindingly obvious line and has attracted a huge amount of attention from various parties over the years. Everyone seemed inspired. Moors projects are always open affairs, so with these 'king lines', you have to put the time in If you want to get there first. It's pretty physical and a long boulder problem.
The Last Of The Moorhicans (font 7b+)
This was a new experience for me, as I've only had a couple of sessions on this over the last year, which for me is pretty unprepared. If Tom's visit taught me one thing, it's to go for the link as quickly as possible. This doesn't work with the very hardest things like the Sandy Crag arĂȘte, but for stuff that's relatively safe (and of which there is a lot to do in the Moors) this is a sound practise that gets a lot done. It leads to noticeable more nerve-racking climbing however. The top stretch was interesting!
 

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