It's been a long time since I posted - I think blogs are kinda going out of fashion...Buying a house, lots of work, guidebook, festival and access stuff is my excuse.. Will this be the last post ever? haha! I'm in one of the most interesting parts of my time climbing so far. Unfortunately most of this interest is internal. The biggest thing that's happening at the moment is the progress on the Sandy Arete. For the first time, I'm seriously thinking about leading it - that blows my mind.
Doesn't quite look as desperate as it feels!
I was up there the other day and Dan Varian happened to be having a look at the moves. He basically knocked over my last mental obstacle, which was me getting terrified on the final 6c move after a load of hard climbing. Stupidly I'd missed that at the very end of the arete you can step left and do a steadier move and place a decent wire. So that's it! It is going to take a few logistics sessions to practise climbing with lead ropes etc, but we're getting seriously close now. Perhaps Dan may pip me to the post.. Pretty stoked to do it either way to be honest.
In other news, I've done a couple of things I've been trying for ages in the past month- The Boulby Wall (E8 6c **) and The Futuristic Herring Gull Project (font~7+whatever, can't justify harder than H7 as it's not very high, but still rock solid..) Really chuffed with getting them done - particularly Herring Gull. It's routes like these and MYXOMOP that mean the most to me. Such fantastic climbs and such little battles.