Unclimbed Lines

The Massive Unclimbed Prows At High Crag
The North York Moors is a unique area for climbing exploration- being relatively close to large urban centers, but still offering a barely-fathomable amount of unclimbed rock. The common question is "How hard do I need to be climbing to put up new routes in the Moors?" To which the answer is "not that hard at all". Having said that, there's very little of quality left to be done sub-extreme, but venture into E3,4,5 and there's good new, or scarcely repeated stuff all over. Once you're trying E6,7,8 there is new stuff at every crag and listing them all is pretty tricky.
This is not a LGP, it's an unclimbed boulder problem. Quite hard like.
Below are some of the things that I think are the best- things that I'd like to see someone climb in my life time. The rate of development in the moors is extraordinary. When I started climbing (5/6 years ago) there was hardly any bouldering and fewer than 10 routes above E5. Take a look at the same area today and there are over 70 bouldering areas and around three times as many routes of E6 and above. The future is bright- get out there, things clean up a lot easier than you'd imagine. LGP is before those routes that aren't likely to be ever climbed, due to being a bit ridiculous.

Steep, featureless and mental
The Wangledoodle Wall H9 7a
A feasible line of weakness up a fairly blank buttress.  Thin crack climbing, some gear, then run-out arete contortions. It's quite probable that this will get done one day I think. Will probably make Danby the crag with the most hard routes in the country!
Piercing Lines At Botton Head
Botton Arete H7 6c
A perfectly plausible lip-traverse sequence at a highball height. Stonking line. 

Tranmire Wall E7 6b/c
A great bit of climbing up the steep wall in the centre of Tranmire. Real nice moves. 

Panda to the Waves E6/7 6c
A link up of Panda to the Masses and the Waves of Inspiration, featuring an interesting bit of new climbing after the crux of the former.

The Scooped Face  (Stoupe)  H7 6b
Luke's linked this a couple of times (starting from the bottom of central crack- could go direct). Sustained, but fairly steady climbing with no gear. A pure line, rock is a a bit naff, but high up it's fine.
The Landslip Arete

Jesus Wall  H8/9 7b
An unclimbed move that should theoretically be possible. It would probably be just about safe with a good belayer and a crag-height fall.

Barry's Face H8 7a
The face of Barry is a bit too tall for a highball. Has been inspected by Dale Comley, who thought it would make a "very good, but very hard route". Middle third is the crux. 


Grand line, wet start, ace top moves.
Vulcan Arete    H7 6c
A very good line with a start that is alas often wet. A sharp boulder problem leads to a flat hold that feels wet, but isn't! A slippery dynamic move off this smooth hold would allow a pocket to be reached (cam). A slightly more tricky, enjoyable and technical sequence then follows to the top. I tried to lead this, manged the boulder problem start went for the jump off the flat hold and landed on my back. Best to wait for a big dry spell, will be a brill route when totally dry. Dangerous without 3 pads.

LGP Stoope Rib H1? 7?
The blunt rib to the right of the Scooped Face is unprotected and Nails. The top is protectable with small tricams and quite easy. Up to a third height is ok. The middle third is nails and quite dangerous. It's a great piece of rock though. Hope it goes one day.

The Mono Wall   H10 7a
After much fiddling I still can't get any gear in any of the monos. Has been done in two halves on a TR, but not linked. No reason why this shouldn't get done by someone with a big enough span, the flexibility and strong enough fingers.
Stonker - Now climbed at H8/E10 7a
LGP Impossible Arete H1? 7b
8 metres of unprotected and extreme laybacking up an arete.  Some of the moves could prove to be impossible. Nails in any case. The Crack to the left is also a project at a protected and hard grade.

The Kepwick Groove H8 6c
Dangerous climbing,  which becomes a little harder once you place the skyhook in the good pocket.  Massive last move. If you bashed a peg into the hole it might be safer, but it would be sad to semi-tame the beast and would make the first unprotected moves really hard.
Quality finishing moves after desperate contorted start

The Magic Scoop (Highcliffe) H8 7a ***
A short hanging scoop with an outrageous start. The rest has been linked at sustained english 6c. Would be a brilliant route if possible to start.
Coffins at the ready!

The Landslip Arete H9 7a **
Some lines are just there- haunting your every walk-in to the hasty bank group. I originally thought this would be ok, after a brief play on the 6c top section. I went back and Richard Waterton pointed out that the move getting through the roof was quite hard. We tried it and it was. Very powerful. The rock is quite bad when it's wet, but the position and rock up top can't be matched.

Death Arete E7 6a/b **
Bit of a suicide mission up the Danby Arete pictured above. Shite cams protect.

Ravenscar Arete H9 7a *
Rumoured to have a font 8a crux at the top of one of the most imposing bits of the Moors. Arguably slightly escapable via A Different Kind Of Blue.

Squid Vicious E8 6b ***
The direct start to the Tormented Sole with a massive wodge of new climbing and a bit of added boldeness at the top.

Roseberry Direct E7 6b ***
So where the Pasketti Alpinist runs off to the left, you get your crappy RPs out and shove them in the rock. Then you pad up sandy dishes, wishing you were already dead.  What an incredible place to be though! Imagine being the first there on lead!

Time Bandits E6 6c/7a **
The right-hand finish to Time Captain wins no awards for line. It breaks out right, needlessly seeking difficulty. But the moves are superb, the rock is from god's own silk collection and the position is top draw. It's gonna be good. Taken a couple of falls off this ground up.

Black Night E7 6c
Needs climbing now the peg has gone. Protected by a good tricam. Might be E6 if it's bomber.

Right-hand finish to Central Crack E6 7a?
Looks hard, moves not done. Well protected mind.




We've currently got a list of 62 other things to get done, so we'll have to see how the next few years go!